I’ve visited the national park on three occasions: to hike the W, then the O Circuit and, most recently, to stay at multiple hotels and enjoy some of the other activities you can find here.
Named after the shape the trek follows, the W is a brilliant introduction to multi-day hiking.
The typically nine-day/eight-night O Circuit is an extended version of the W and my preferred trail.
It’s a challenging trek: 16 kilometres (nine miles) return and with an altitude gain of 750 metres (2,460 feet).
It’s one of the best views you can get without approaching them directly on foot.
I went out into the park with Chile Nativo, their top puma guide and a local rancher turned puma spotter.