If you’ve got the time, spirit of adventure and the money, there’s no excuse not to embark on a road trip through Patagonia, and I strongly recommend you do it. Some of the most powerful memories I’ve got from my different trips exploring Patagonia come from road trips through the region’s wild landscapes.
The following itineraries give you an idea of various road trips available to you for different parts of Patagonia, including the Carretera Austral and Southern Chilean and Argentine Patagonia.
If you’re interested in learning more about any of them, I offer trip planning calls for Patagonia and can help you plot out your own Patagonia itinerary, taking the stress and hassle out of putting together your trip. Find out more information here.
Fourteen days driving the Carretera Austral
Two weeks is enough time to drive – and enjoy – most of the Carretera Austral. However, because of the prohibitively high costs of one-way rentals, it makes financial sense to hire and drop off your vehicle in the same place.
This route includes most of the Carretera Austral, as well as a short trip through Chiloé, another of the most magical parts of Chile.
Overview of this 14-day Carretera Austral itinerary:
- Day One: Puerto Montt to Hornopirén
- Day Two: Hornopirén to Chaitén
- Days Three and Four: Parque Nacional Pumalín
- Day Five: Puyuhuapi and the hanging glacier in Parque Nacional Queulat
- Days Six and Seven: Villa Cerro Castillo and Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo
- Day Eight: Puerto Río Tranquilo and the marble caves
- Days Nine: Parque Nacional Patagonia
- Days Ten and Eleven: The Naviera Austral ferry to Quellón
- Days Twelve and Thirteen: Chiloé Island
- Day Fourteen: Puerto Montt
Day One: Puerto Montt to Hornopirén
Rent a car from the airport in Puerto Montt using Rental Cars, but confirm with the hire company that they will allow you to drive on the Carretera Austral – Econorent does. Drive south to Hornopirén (3 hours).
Stay overnight in the cosy bedrooms of Hosteria Catalina.
Day Two: Ferry from Hornopirén to Chaitén
Board the SOMARCO ferry at 10am to Caleta Gonzalo (4.5 hours, $69,500 CLP/$73 USD) per vehicle including passengers; price includes ferry to Leptepú and then onwards to Caleta Gonzalo).
Stay overnight in the cabins at the fancier Caleta Gonzalo (from $209,000 CLP/$208 USD two-person cabin) or drive south to Chaitén (1 hour) and bed down at Chucao Bosque y Cabañas ($67,000 CLP/$72 USD two-person cabin).
Days Three and Four: Parque Nacional Pumalín
Enjoy Parque Nacional Pumalín, one of the most spectacular parks along the Carretera Austral, packed full of hiking opportunities, hot springs and kayaking.
My favorite trail is the challenging Sendero Volcán Chaitén, a 4.4km round trip. The trail ascends steeply through lush forest and quickly climbs out of the greenery into the path of the eruption, now a landscape of charred tree trunks. A final steep climb leads to the edge of the 3.5 km-wide crater for phenomenal views of the still-steaming volcano and the destruction of the surrounding landscape.
Stay overnight in Caleta Gonzalo or Chaitén.
Day Five: Puyuhuapi and Parque Nacional Queulat
Drive south to Puyuhuapi (2.5 hours) and spend the afternoon in Parque Nacional Queulat, where the spectacular Ventisquero Queulat (or Queulat Hanging Glacier) is located; the moderate Sendero Mirador del Ventisquero that climbs through evergreen southern beech forest reaches a viewpoint across from the glacier.
Last entry is at 2.30pm (and it’s not open Mondays), so don’t get there too late – and make sure you purchase your ticket in advance online here and download it while you still have cell service.
Stay overnight in the affordable family-run Hostería Alemán ($58,000 CLP/$61 USD double), which is welcoming and good value for the money, particularly if you ask for a newer room, with modern white bath suites and views of the lovely garden. Breakfast is ample, with cheese and bread plus the occasional cake or kuchen.
Alternatively, book a night or two at the Puyuhuapi Lodge & Spa ($335,000 CLP/$335 USD double B&B). Accessible by speedboat from a signposted jetty 15km south of Puyuhuapi, the lodge is on Fiordo Puyuhuapi, where squat toninas (Chilean dolphins), seabirds, and other marine life are visible. Three outdoor hot springs pools are down a short path through the woods, with sun loungers and views.
Days Six and Seven: Villa Cerro Castillo and Parque Nacional Villa Cerro Castillo
Drive south to Villa Cerro Castillo (6 hours) via Coyhaique, the largest town along the Carretera Austral and a great place to pick up provisions in the large UNIMARC supermarket located there.
Spend the following day hiking the Sendero Mirador Laguna Cerro Castillo, a climb up the southern flank of Cerro Castillo, a castle-shaped peak in the middle of the park. You gain 1,000 meters climbing through forests of ñirre, Chilean fire tree, and Calafate bushes to reach scree for the steep final 2km. The reward for the unrelenting ascent is a view of the mountains and Laguna Cerro Castillo.
Stay in the overpriced (but most comfortable) B&B Cerro Castillo ($207,000 CLP/$220 USD double two-person cabin; cash only) or friendly Senderos Patagonia’s new double rooms.
Day Eight: Puerto Río Tranquilo and the marble caves
Drive south to Puerto Río Tranquilo (3 hours) and visit the marble caves on the cyan waters of Lago General Carrera. These rock formations contain marble in all colors of the rainbow and are made even more picturesque thanks to the water’s hue. Speedboat tours last for around 1.5 hours and cost $20,000 CLP ($21 USD) per person.
Stay overnight in nearby Mallin Colorado Ecolodge (read my review of this Patagonian lodge) or at Terra Luna Lodge, a little futher south and offering better value for money.
Day Nine: Parque Nacional Patagonia
Drive south to Valle Chacabuco (2.5 hours), a part of the beautiful Parque Nacional Patagonia. The Valle Chacabuco Sector of the park has some of the best hiking in the region through varied landscapes: the western edges of the park are wet and mountainous, containing southern beech forests; the eastern side, flanking the Argentine border, is home to arid steppe.
The most popular hike is the moderate Lagunas Altas trail, which climbs the flanks of Cerro Tamanguito. The path ascends steadily and is exposed for the first few kilometers before it reaches lenga forest and a mirador on a scree ridge with striking views along Valle Chacabuco.
Drive back to your hotel or, if you’re on a larger budget, check in to Explora Valle Chacabuco, which is part of the high-end Explora brand and offers all-inclusive lodgings in the park.
Days Ten and Eleven: Naviera Austral Ferry to Quellón
Drive north to Puerto Cisnes (8-9 hours) to stay overnight. The following morning, catch the Naviera Austral ferry to Quellón (12.5 hours, from $179,450 CLP ($186 USD) per vehicle plus $30,500 CLP ($32 USD) per passenger), a town in the south of Chiloé Island.
This is a beautiful journey north, just be aware that it only departs four times per week and is better taken from Puerto Cisnes to Quellón (not the other way around) because in this direction, it sails during the day, so you actually get to see the scenery of the fjords.
Note that tickets give you a seat on the boat (like a reclining seat on a bus), not a cabin. When you reach Quellón (which, depending on the ferry you take, could be very late), stay overnight at Hotel Mitos ($66,000 CLP/$70 USD double).
Days Twelve and Thirteen: Chiloé Island
Base yourself in Castro, a 1.5-hour drive north. Explore the palafitos (old fishermen dwellings on stilts) of Castro, take a day trip out to Cucao to hike in the beautiful Parque Tepuhuieco, or drive out to Isla Quinchao or Isla Lemuy for the day.
Stay overnight in one of Castro’s palafitos, such as the beautiful Sizigia ($109,000 CLP/$115 USD double), whose eight modern bedrooms are in keeping with their traditional surroundings and central heating and floor-to-ceiling windows, with six boasting gorgeous sea views.
Alternatively, expect a warm welcome at friendly Estacion Hostel ($35,000 CLP/$37 USD double shared bath), a guesthouse on the eastern edge of the city. Rooms are a little dark, but everything is spotless, with access to a large, well-equipped kitchen and spacious communal dining area.
Day Fourteen: Puerto Montt
Drive north back to Puerto Montt (4.5-5) hours via the boat from the Chacao port (operates 24 hours, 30 mins, $14,500 CLP ($15 USD) vehicle with passengers). Keep your eyes peeled for toninas (Chilean dolphins) riding the waves at the front of the boat.
Changes you can make to this Carretera Austral Itinerary: Add an extra two days and visit Futaleufú, a three-hour drive east of Chaitén, which is known as one of the world’s best places for white-water rafting and also has some beautiful hikes. Read more about visiting Futaleufú.
Two-week Carretera Austral self-drive itinerary from Balmaceda
This road trip through Patagonia offers an alternative route, this time arriving in Balmaceda by plane and exploring most of the southern part of the Carretera Austral:
Overview of this 14-day Carretera Austral itinerary:
- Day One: Balmaceda to Puyuhuapi
- Day Two: Parque Nacional Queulat
- Days Three to Five: Villa Cerro Castillo and Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo
- Days Six and Seven: Puerto Río Tranquilo and the Marble Caves
- Days Eight to Ten: Parque Nacional Patagonia
- Day Eleven: Caleta Tortel
- Day Twelve and Thirteen: Chile Chico
- Day Fourteen: Ferry and Drive to Balmaceda
Day One: Balmaceda to Puyuhuapi
Fly into Balmaceda and rent a car using Rental Cars. Drive north to Puyuhuapi (5.5 hours) and stay overnight in the affordable Hostal Aonikenk, which is ideal if you’re self-catering.
Day Two: Parque Nacional Queulat
Spend the day in Parque Nacional Queulat (only open Tues-Sun., 9am-14:30pm (you can stay in the park until 16:30pm; buy tickets here), where you find the spectacular Ventisquero Queulat (or Queulat Hanging Glacier) and return to Puyuhuapi at night.
Days Three to Five: Villa Cerro Castillo and Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo
Drive south to Villa Cerro Castillo (6 hours) via Coyhaique, the largest town along the Carretera Austral and a great place to pick up provisions in the large UNIMARC supermarket located there.
Stay in the beautifully decorated rooms at Refugio Cerro Castillo, with views of the mountain from the windows.
Spend a day or two in the national park, hiking the trail up to Lago Cerro Castillo for incredible views of Cerro Castillo, a castle-shaped peak in the middle of park, and other trails in the other side of the national park.
Days Six and Seven: Puerto Río Tranquilo and the Marble Caves
Drive south to Puerto Río Tranquilo (3 hours) and visit the marble caves on the cyan waters of Lago General Carrera.
Stay overnight in nearby Mallin Colorado Ecolodge (read my review of this Patagonian lodge).
Days Eight to Ten: Parque Nacional Patagonia
Drive south to Valle Chacabuco (2.5 hours), a part of the beautiful Parque Nacional Patagonia. Spend a day or two hiking in the national park; you can also visit Sector Tamango, which is a couple of kilometres east of Cochrane.
Stay overnight in the luxurious Lodge at Valle Chacabuco or in the more utilitarian guest house Lejana Patagonia in Cochrane, an hour’s drive south.
Day Eleven: Caleta Tortel
Drive south to Caleta Tortel (3 hours) and enjoy this remarkable village, where there are no roads. Instead, boardwalks traverse for miles across this picturesque fjord-side settlement.
Stay overnight in the modern bedrooms of the stylish Entrehielos Lodge.
Day Twelve and Thirteen: Chile Chico
Drive north to Chile Chico (6.5 hours). This is along the southern shores of Lago General Carrera, which are both vertiginous and horribly potholed – so you’ll want a 4WD if you plan on undertaking this journey.
Spend a day in the northernmost sector of Parque Nacional Patagonia, Jeinimeni, for glorious mountain views and some beautiful short hikes.
Stay overnight in the charming Hostería de la Patagonia.
Day Fourteen: Ferry and Drive to Balmaceda
Take the Naviera Austral ferry across to Puerto Ingerniero Ibáñez (2 hours, $21,270 CLP ($22 USD) for vehicles plus $2,500 CLP (2.5 USD) for passengers) and then drive back to Balmaceda to return the car (1 hour). Note that the ferry timetable does vary according to the day.
Changes to make to this itinerary: Make it shorter by heading directly to Villa Cerro Castillo or cutting out Caleta Gonzalo. Alternatively, add three days and drive down to Villa O’Higgins (7 hours) where there is hiking and boat visits to Glacier O’Higgins. You may well see a huemul – a rare species of deer – on the road here.
A 14-day drive through Southern Chilean and Argentine Patagonia
Two weeks is enough time to explore the main highlights of southern Chilean and Argentine Patagonia.
You’ll cover large distances and spend a lot of time on the road, but cyou an break it up with visits to extraordinary national parks and natural highlights, such as the Perito Moreno Glacier and the king penguin colony in Tierra del Fuego.
Overview of this 14-day Carretera Austral itinerary:
- Day One: Punta Arenas
- Days Two to Four: Puerto Natales and Parque Nacional Torres del Paine
- Days Three and Four: Parque Nacional Los Glaciares and Glaciar El Perito Moreno
- Day Five to Seven: El Chaltén and Parque Nacional Los Glaciares
- Day Eight: Río Gallegos
- Day Nine: Parque Nacional Pali Aike
- Day Ten: Parque Pinguino Rey and Ushuaia
- Days Eleven and Twelve: Ushuaia
- Day Thirteen: Porvenir
- Day Fourteen: Ferry to Punta Arenas
Day One: Punta Arenas
Fly into Punta Arenas and rent a car using Rental Cars. Spend a day visiting the nature reserves located nearby or driving to the end of the road beyond Puerto del Hambre, where you can appreciate the mountains of Isla Dawson and Tierra del Fuego and may see dolphins swimming in the Strait of Magellan.
Stay overnight in Swedish design-inspired Hotel Ilaia.
Days Two to Four: Puerto Natales and Parque Nacional Torres del Paine
Drive north to Puerto Natales (3 hours) and then into Torres del Paine National Park (1.5/2 hours, depending on which entrance you use).
Spend a couple of days hiking sections of the W trek and exploring the different viewpoints and short hikes around the national park. Stay overnight in one of the luxury hotels or more budget-friendly cabins or camping in Torres del Paine National Park. Read about my favourite day hikes in the park.
Days Three and Four: Parque Nacional Los Glaciares and Glaciar El Perito Moreno
Drive east to El Calafate (3-5 hours, depends on traffic at the border) and enjoy the scenery across Lago Argentina. Stay overnight in Design Suites Calafate, which has mesmerising views of the lake.
Drive east to the southernmost section of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (1.5 hours), one of Argentina’s best national parks, to visit El Perito Moreno, the country’s most impressive glacier. Return to El Calafate for the night.
Day Five to Seven: El Chaltén and Parque Nacional Los Glaciares
Drive to El Chaltén (3 hours). Spend a couple of days hiking here, including the most well-known hike up to Laguna de los Tres and Monte Fitzroy, although my new personal favorite from my latest trip to El Chaltén is the hike up Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, which is underrated and so quiet compared with the other trails. Stay overnight in the charming Nothofagus B&B.
Day Eight: Río Gallegos
Drive south to Río Gallegos (6 hours), a nondescript port town on the Atlantic coast. Stay overnight in Hotel Patagonia, the smartest and most upmarket (but still affordable) option in town.
Day Nine: Parque Nacional Pali Aike
Drive into Chile and to Parque Nacional Pali Aike (2 hours), a barely-visited national park with volcanic craters, lakes filled with flamingos and the chance to spot armadillo and even puma.
Stay overnight in nearby Punta Delgada and the simple but comfortable Hostal San Gregorio.
Day Ten: Parque Pinguino Rey and Ushuaia
Drive to Ushuaia (7 hours) via Parque Pinguino Rey, a private reserve home to a colony of king penguins. Make sure you reserve in advance your slot to visit the penguins here.
Cross the border back into Argentina at Paso San Sebastián and arrive in Ushuaia. Stay overnight at Hostería Foike, an eco-friendly guesthouse with views of the Beagle Channel from some rooms.
Days Eleven and Twelve: Ushuaia
Explore Ushuaia, hiking up to Glacier Marshall, exploring Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego with its spectacular views of the Beagle Channel or taking a boat trip out to visit sea lion and penguin colonies.
Day Thirteen: Porvenir
Cross the border back into Chile and drive to Porvenir (5.5 hours), a small town on the western edge of Tierra del Fuego and stay overnight in the neat, spacious bedrooms at Yendegaia House.
Day Fourteen: Ferry to Punta Arenas
Take the TABSA ferry from Porvenir across to Punta Arenas (2 hours, $61,000 CLP ($63 USD) for vehicle including passengers) and return the vehicle to the airport.
Changes to make to this itinerary: I actually think Chilean Tierra def Fuego is more beautiful than the Argentine side – but it’s much harder to get to. You could replace Ushuaia with three days heading south into the Chilean side instead. Read more about exploring Chilean Tierra del Fuego.
Top tips for driving in Patagonia
I’ve got a whole post dedicated to things to know when planning a Patagonian road trip, so head over to my guide to driving in Patagonia.