With its snow-capped mountains, endless glaciers, sultry tango dancers, and mouth-watering steaks, Argentina, the land of adventure, is calling.
Argentina is a large country and because it is so far from everywhere else, it seems like a good idea to pack in all the trekking, glacier-watching, and wine-drinking that you can during your precious few days of vacation.
After all, there’s so much to do, why choose?
But I’m here to tell you that it’s probably best to slow down, pick a few locations and spend a while absorbing this beautiful culture. That way you will spend more time really getting to know the highlights and less time traveling between the destinations.
How to use these Argentina itineraries
These itineraries focus on the things to do in Argentina broadly, using flights to pop between the most popular regions. If you want to focus specifically on Patagonia in the south, check-out one and two weeks of travel in Patagonia, or an itinerary for three or more weeks in Patagonia.
Recommendations for travel in Argentina:
- Domestic flights across Argentina are easy but itineraries can be screwy due to the fact that Buenos Aires is often used as the center hub. Aerolineas Argentina is a longstanding airline, but discount airlines such as JetSmart and Flybondi are becoming more popular. Be aware that you always have to pay an extra fee for both hold baggage and cabin baggage and they will charge you if you go over their weight limits. They are also well known for making last-minute flight changes. I generally compare prices on Skyscanner and then book directly with the companies online.
- Buses are an inexpensive and reliable form of transport through Argentina. Long-distance buses are comfortable with bathrooms, but stops are limited so bring all your food and drink on board. Check out Bus Bud for best prices.
- Rent a car to explore a destination. Argentina is a huge country with many unpaved roads, so I wouldn’t recommend renting a car to travel between destinations. Throughout this itinerary, I’ve noted where renting a car is recommended to see the sites. Generally, RentalCars offers the best prices.
- Uber and other ridesharing apps such as Cabify do work in larger cities.
- Argentina is a safe place to visit. Other than a few neighborhoods in Buenos Aires (for example, avoid La Boca at night), you will find that Argentinians are happy and welcoming people.
- Do some research on how to get the best “blue dollar” exchange rate. The economy of Argentina is struggling and inflation is soaring. Bringing US dollars into the country is one method, or using a service like Western Union to transfer your money into Argentine pesos is also a safe and common method. Read this complete guide to spending money in Argentina for detailed information.
Argentina Itinerary for seven days of travel
- Days one and two: Buenos Aires
- Days three and four: Iguazú Falls, Argentina, and Iguaçu Falls, Brazil
- Days five to seven: Mendoza
Days one and two: Buenos Aires
Known as the “Paris of South America”, Buenos Aires is a beautiful capital city offering distinct neighborhoods, fabulous food, public art, and green spaces for all to enjoy.
Arrive at either Ezeiza International Airport or Aeroparque Internacional Jorge Newbery and take official black and yellow taxis or private transfer services into town. Uber and Cabify apps do work here, but drivers are often reluctant to do airport pick-ups due to the strong presence and wrath of traditional taxi drivers.
Spend your day exploring the architectural beauty and history of the city center. Plaza de Mayo is where you’ll find the gorgeous Catedral Metropolitana and Casa Rosada, the Presidential Palace. If you’d like to learn more about the history of this important area of the city, I highly recommend taking a tour such as Guru Free Walking Tours.
Nearby, Paseo Florida is a pedestrian-only street known for its lavish shopping centers and tourist stands selling tickets for a quintessential evening tango show. Most shows include an option of transport from your hotel, a big Argentine dinner, lots of wine, and an hour of stunning tango dancing.
Nearby, don’t miss a chance to have a cafe in the historic Café Tortoni, or take a photo of the city letters at the Obelisk. Then, you can take a tour in English of Teatro Colón, considered by many as one of the best opera houses in the world.
If you did not book a dinner and tango show for your evening in Buenos Aires, then you have two great dinner options:
- Avenida Corrientes is BA’s Italian section and is chock-full of bars and Italian eateries that serve the very best pastas and pizzas in South America. Try the local favorite Pizzería Güerrín. In the evening, one side of the avenue is closed off for street performers and pedestrians, so the crowds flock here late at night.
- The hip and modern neighborhoods of Palermo Soho, Plaza Serrano and Hollywood Palermo are known for their small boutiques, decadent steak houses, and fabulous night life. For a real Argentine dinner, try the popular Don Julio, Calden del Soho Grill or La Cabrera. Reservations are required far ahead for all of these locations.
For a second day in BA, take in the old-world charms and flavors of Recoleta. Start out perusing the unique shops along Avenida Santa Fe, pop into the historic El Ateneo Grand Splendid Bookstore, then head into the neighborhood to enjoy the architecture and cafes. Don’t miss the chance to get a coffee and a medialuna. These flaky, heavenly croissants, or any other sweet “factura”, are a great way to kickstart the day.
Other popular attractions in Recoleta include the Recoleta Cemetery, a lavish resting spot for the rich of Buenos Aires. The Recoleta Cultural Arts Center and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes are both free to enter while Flóralis Genérica, an impressively giant steel statue, is worthy of your photo.
For more information about Buenos Aires, check out my three- and five-day Buenos Aires itineraries. My guide to safety in Buenos Aires will also ensure you plan a safe trip.
Where to stay in Buenos Aires
There are plenty of wonderful hotels and apartments in Buenos Aires, offering a range of accommodations to suit every budget. My favorite neighborhoods for hotels are Palermo, Recoleta, and San Telmo.
Palermo Hollywood is a hip neighborhood within the larger area of Palermo, close to the best shopping, steakhouses, cafes, and nightlife. For a modern and reasonably priced hotel with breakfast included, head to Let Sun Hotel Boutique ($170 USD double).
Recoleta is filled with quaint cafes and old-world charm and is home to some of the most luxurious hotels. For a moderate, but ultra-modern accommodation, try ARC Recoleta Boutique Hotel and Spa ($150 USD double).
San Telmo is a bohemian area close to the city center but safety can be a little bit of an issue; check with your hotel about which parts of the neighborhood to avoid. For spacious and comfortable rooms, check out the French-inspired L’Adresse Hotel Boutique ($150 USD double).
Days three and four: Iguazú Falls, Argentina, and Iguaçu Falls, Brazil
Use the airport Aeroparque Internacional Jorge Newbery to fly to Puerto Iguazú, Argentina.
Iguazú Falls is one of the largest waterfalls, or cataratas, in the world and because it straddles both Argentina and Brazil, it is an incredibly impressive experience to feel its refreshing spray from both countries.
If you’re wondering why you need two days to visit, just know that there are a lot of walkways and viewpoints as well as park transit systems and big crowds enjoying them all, so it takes time to really appreciate what this area has to offer.
Start your first day at the Argentine side of Iguazú Falls National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You need to make a reservation and pay an entrance fee online before entering the park here. Your entrance ticket pays for access to all the walkways, a tram out to the Devil’s Throat walkway and a short ferry ride across to an island in the middle of the falls.
To get to the park from town, hire a transfer service, a personal guide, or just go to the Puerto Iguazú Terminal de Buses and take the easy-to-use public bus to and from the park.
Once in the park, you don’t need a guide, just follow the well-marked trail system and listen for the thunder of the falls. It is permitted to carry in your own food and water, but there are also many restaurants within the park.
Argentina’s side of the falls are divided into three primary walkways: the “Paseo Inferior” which takes you through the forest for frontal views of the waterfalls, the “Paseo Superior” which takes you on top of some of the waterfalls, and the “Garganta del Diablo” which allows you to practically stand in the falls as it plunges into the Devil’s Throat!
If you want to take a speedboat tour near the base of the falls, buy your ticket at the park entrance. Spaces fill quickly each morning!
To see the Brazilian side of Iguazú Falls, either find a taxi, hire a guide or return to the bus station and catch the bus going to the Brazilian side.
I found the public bus very easy to use, since they help you through the migration checkpoint and deliver you to the entrance of the Parque Nacional do Iguaçu in Brazil.
They also stick a number on your shirt, which identifies which bus company will take you back to Argentina. It’s very well organized and safe, and with your identification sticker, anybody can help you out.
Once off the bus in Brazil, head directly to the Parque de Aves. This bird rehabilitation center offers up-close experiences with birds from around the region. And the gardens are not to be missed!
Across the street, buy your ticket for the Brazilian side of the falls at a self-pay kiosk. Then, board the bus that will take you to and from the waterfall-viewing boardwalk.
The Brazilian side is special because, unlike the Argentine side where you see the falls in sections, here you can appreciate the entire 2.7 km (1.7 mile) width of the Iguazú Falls in all its glory.
After viewing the Brazilian side, return to Argentina.
New visa requirements to get into Brazil: Starting April 10th 2025, travelers from Australia, Europe, Canada, and the United States will need a visa to enter Brazil for both tourism and business purposes – including when visiting Iguazu Falls. Eligible travellers can apply for an e-Visa through the official portal: https://brazil.vfsevisa.com/ which is a relatively straightforward process – with successful applicants typically receiving their approved visa via email within a few days.
Where to stay in Puerto Iguazú, Argentina:
For a luxury tropical forest option with spacious rooms and a garden pool, look no further than La Aldea de la Selva Lodge situated outside of town on the way to the national park. ($300 USD double).
For a mid-range option, enjoy the central town location and the pool at Rincón Escondido Bed and Breakfast ($150 USD double) or the luxurious gardens at Secret Garden Iguazú ($150 USD double).
Days five to seven: Mendoza
Take an early morning flight to Mendoza. You’ll need to fly through Buenos Aires. Be aware that there are two airports in the city, the international airport, Ezeiza International Airport (EZE), and the domestic airport, Jorge Newbery Airport (AEP).
They aren’t close together, so either pick two flights leaving from the same airport or give yourself at least an hour and a half to get between the two.
Bookmarked on one side by the craggy Andes mountains and surrounded by vineyards and ranches, called estancias, Mendoza is home to the scenery you probably thought of when dreaming about Argentina.
The real draw of the region, however, is its wineries. With over 800 in the area, Mendoza is the top producer and exporter of Argentinian wines, especially the world-renowned Malbecs.
After arriving at Aeropuerto Internacional El Plumerillo-Mendoza, spend your first afternoon strolling the pedestrian street Peatonal Sarmiento, the large central Plaza Independencia and the central core of downtown.
These streets are filled with cafes, ice cream parlors, craft breweries, and fantastic parrillas or restaurants grilling up the best Argentine meats.
Along the way, you’ll also spot many different tour agencies offering a variety of half and full-day tours. You can take a full-day wine tour to various wineries, with tours generally including hotel pick-up and lunch. Alternatively, a bicycle tour through the vineyards is a more energetic choice – although you can also rent a bicycle for the day and make your own way to clusters of vineyards on your own.
Finding directions, transport, and a bicycle shop is easy to do – just ask at your accommodations for a recommendation.
Other activities in the region include hiking in Aconcagua National Park, with its high-altitude mountain scenery crowned by Aconcagua, the highest mountain in South America. Alternatively, horseback riding tours, called cabalgatas, across the pampas grasslands offer the chance to feast on steaks and sausages at a traditional asado.
Whichever tour you choose, it will be the perfect end to your vacation in Argentina.
Where to stay in Mendoza:
For the best in modern luxury in downtown Mendoza, try the DiplomaticHotel ($400 USD double). For a mid-priced option with a lovely garden setting in town, head to Casa Lila ($180 USD double).
Or, if you fancy an immersive wine experience, there are several wine lodges in the outskirts of Mendoza. For example, Finca Adalgisa Wine Hotel ($421 USD double) offers tapas, wine, cooking classes and the traditional Argentine asado during your experience. Inquire with the hotel for prices.
How to extend this trip:
If you can squeeze some extra days into your vacation, flights are available daily from Mendoza back to Buenos Aires and then to all other points further south such as El Calafate and Ushuaia. See the ten and 14-day itineraries below for more specific information about those regions.
If you want to explore more of northern and central Argentina, consider the following destinations. All flights are routed through Buenos Aires as the central hub.
Salta is a culturally rich corner of Argentina, due to its location on the border with Bolivia and its rich indigenous heritage. The music, the food and the landscapes are very unique when compared with the rest of Argentina, making it the ideal place to experience an entirely different part of the country.
Spend a day in the colonial city of Salta and then rent a car to explore the region. To the north, lies the Salinas Grandes salt flat, as well as historic pueblos such as Humahuaca and Purmamarca set in amongst the region’s trademark rocky landscape. T
o the south lies the colorful Quebrada de las Conchas, a valley of otherworldly rock formations, and the high-elevation wine region of Calafate.
I recommend spending five to seven extra days in this region. Read my guide to the best things to do in and around Salta for suggestions.
San Carlos de Bariloche is a paradise for the outdoor adventurer. With trails to hike, roads to bike, and refreshing lakes awaiting a plunge, there’s plenty to keep you occupied for at least four days in Bariloche.
For more detailed information, see our suggestions for visiting this area in our ten and 14-day itineraries below. You can also read my guide to the best things to do in Bariloche.
Argentina itinerary for ten days of travel
- Day one: Buenos Aires
- Days two to four: San Carlos de Bariloche
- Day five: El Calafate and El Chalten
- Days six and seven: El Chalten
- Day eight: El Calafate & Glacier Perito Moreno
- Days nine and ten: Ushuaia
Day one: Buenos Aires
Arrive at either Ezeiza International Airport (EZE) or Jorge Newbery Airport (AEP).
See the recommendations in the seven-day itinerary for what to do in Buenos Aires.
Days two to four: San Carlos de Bariloche
Use the airport Aeroparque Internacional Jorge Newbery to fly to San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina.
Bariloche (Bar-ee-lo-chay) is a wonderland of outdoor adventure with snowy mountains, deep blue lakes and a culture of enjoying beer and chocolate. What’s not to love about that?
Arrive at San Carlos de Bariloche airport. Because public transportation is a little unreliable, I recommend renting a car. Check out Rental Cars for the best prices.
To really see the best of what Bariloche has to offer, head out into the “Kilometers” west of town. Visit Lago Gutierez and Nahuel Huapi National Park from Villa Los Coihues to take in the Cascada de los Duendes (Dwarves Waterfall) or climb the three kilometers (1.9 miles) to the Mirador Lago Gutiérrez, overlooking the narrow lake channeled between steep mountains.
Further west, you can take the chairlift up to Cerro Campanario; the viewing deck and café has astonishing views of all the surrounding mountains.
Alternatively, take the loop around Lago Perito Moreno known as Circuito Chico (the Little Circle) – you’ll want to hire a car or rent a bike for this 27-km (17 mile) route that has plenty of viewpoints and short hiking trails.
The next day, find out why Bariloche is known as one of Argentina’s best hiking destination. One of the most popular trails is the day hike to Refugio Frey, a typical mountain hut beside a beautiful lake.
A more moderate day hike is up Cerro Goye, with its spectacular viewpoint with sweeping vistas of Lake Nahuel Huapi and the surrounding mountains.
If you want to give your legs a rest, you can find day tours leaving from Bariloche and heading out into the local area. Boat excursions across Lake Nahuel Huapi to beautiful national parks home to a unique forest of ancient and orange arrayanes, or myrtle, trees are popular, while you can also take a tour to Cerro Tronador, a beautiful 3,500-meter (11,500-foot) volcano which straddles the border between Argentina and Chile.
Bariloche has plenty of great restaurants. Steaks are always on the menu at El Boliche de Alberto, but if you’re interested in digging into the region’s German roots, Familia Weiss specializes in fondues, and goulash.
Alternatively, for the most popular Argentine milanesa (think schnitzel) in town, look no further than the long line in front of La Fonda del Tio, or the more centrally located Dondera la Fonda where you’ll find huge portions of local favorites.
For more detailed information on visiting Bariloche, read my guide to the best things to do in Bariloche.
Where to stay in Bariloche:
Due to limited public transportation, I recommend staying somewhere close to the city center. But if you rent a car, your accommodation options are endless along the kilometers west of town.
Llao Llao Resort ($450 USD double) is a five-star hotel with unfettered views of the mountains and lakes around Llao Llao, 25 kilometers (16 miles) west of Bariloche at the beginning of the Circuito Chico. There’s also a gorgeous infinity pool, a spa, and a golf course.
If you’re looking to be more centrally located, the more moderately priced Hotel Tirol ($210 USD double) will treat you to comfortable German-style accommodations.
Bonita Lake House Hostel and Bungalows ($150 USD Double) is a lovely lakeside hostel with restaurants and a beach nearby. It is located 8 km (5 miles) from town with great breakfast and views.
For more budget options, Bariloche is overflowing with apartment rentals. Check Booking.com for options.
Day five: El Calafate and El Chalten
Fly to Patagonia on an early morning flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate (four daily, three hours 15 minutes, from $158 USD return).
There’s not much to do in town so board the earliest bus to El Chaltén. Journeys should take approximately three hours and cost $37 USD.
When you arrive in El Chaltén, it’s a good idea to buy your bus ticket back to El Calafate if travelling in Patagonia in high season.
The trail to Mirador Los Cóndores is the perfect short hike to do when you get there, with dazzling views of El Chaltén and the national park beyond.
For full information about the trails you should check out, visit this website entirely dedicated to self-guided hikes from El Chaltén.
Where to stay in El Chalten
For some of the best views in town, head to the plush sofas of the Los Cerros Boutique Hotel ($400 USD double), part of an Argentinean chain of hotels. Rooms are somewhat characterless and ask for one with an even number for the best mountain views. There’s a jacuzzi and sauna plus bar and restaurant.
Alternatively, the friendly and cosy Nothofagus B&B ($160 USD) has wonderful Mont Fitz Roy views from some of its upstairs rooms. There are also plenty of living spaces around the guesthouse, plus a small cafeteria-style breakfast room downstairs.
For those who prefer self-catering accommodation, you can’t go wrong with Latitud 49˚ ($1030USD double apartment) and their modern apartments, complete with living room and kitchen.
Owners Florencia and Lucas live next door and also have an encyclopedic knowledge of El Chaltén, its restaurants and activities.
Days six and seven: El Chaltén
Spend the next two days of your ten-day Patagonia itinerary in El Chaltén, Argentina’s self-designated hiking capital.
Set on the northern edge of Los Glaciares National Park, this town is within striking distance of plenty of Patagonia’s most famous hikes.
These include to the bewitching Laguna de los Tres (a personal favorite, but unfortunately one now rammed with hikers) and the flatter and less challenging routes to Laguna Torre, both of which give astounding views of the iconic Cerro Torre (the inspiration for the clothing brand, Patagonia’s, logo).
Far lesser-hiked is the criminally underrated Loma del Pliegue Tumbado trail, a challenging 18km, nine-hour out-and-back trail that takes you to the top of Piegue Tumbado, where you’re rewarded on a clear day with extraordinary panoramas back towards Cerro Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and Glaciar Torre.
If opting for the Laguna de los Tres hike, make sure you set off early – and factor in spending time at the top. If hiking the Laguna Torre route, once you reach the final viewpoint, on a clear day, follow the ridge to the right and you’ll find an even better view.
The shorter trail to Mirador Los Cóndores and Mirador Águila is also worthwhile, with dazzling views of El Chaltén and the national park beyond.
For full information about the trails you should check out, visit this website entirely dedicated to self-guided hikes from El Chaltén.
Between adventures, grab pizzas and calzones at La Ruca Mahuida (Lionel Terray 55) Prices – and food – are superb and they have a beer garden in summer.
You can’t miss sampling wine in Argentina, so head to the poky La Vinería (Av. Lago de Desierto 265), with really knowledgeable staff and plenty of cheese and meat-sharing platters to nibble on as you sip.
For a hearty Patagonian meal, along with unfiltered blonde or bock on tap, head to La Cervecería (San Martín 320). Make sure to try their famed locro soup (a spicy meat, maize and vegetable stew).
Catch the 6pm or 9.30pm Chalten Travel bus from El Chalten back to El Calafate (3 hours, $37).
Day eight: El Calafate & Glacier Perito Moreno
At dawn, take a walk over to Reserva Laguna Nimez, where flocks of flamingos, black-necked swans and over 70 species of birds nest and are most active in the early morning.
Today’s the day for appreciating one of Argentine Patagonia’s greatest highlights: Glacier Perito Moreno.
To get to Los Glaciares National Park and the glacier, if there are more than two of you, rent a taxi for the day for an agreed fee or take the bus from the main bus terminal (one hour thirty minutes, $50 USD return).
Cal-Tur and Chaltén Travel offer run this route and often offer hotel pick-ups – check this when you book.
Entry into the park is around $35 USD (cash only or online here), but worth the expense, as you can walk up to the snout of this huge glacier thanks to a boardwalk that sits only a few hundred metres away.
You can take a one-hour boat tour up to the snout of the glacier (it’s impressive but I wasn’t sure it was worth the expense as the view from the boardwalks is fantastic already) with Southern Spirit ($50 USD per person, leaving from the boardwalk in front of the glacier).
Hielo y Aventura also run one-hour tours ($20 USD, leaving from Puerto Bajo de las Sombras, a port six kilometers before you reach the main car park).
Hielo y Aventura run ice trekking (“Mini Trekking”, one hour, thirty minutes on the ice from $280 USD; or the more demanding “Big Ice”, three hours 30 minutes on the ice, $490 USD).
Mil Outdoor also run kayaking tours (two and a half hours of paddling in double kayaks, $310 USD) and while you can’t get as close to the snout as the boat does due to safety concerns, it’s a far quieter and back-to-basics way of appreciating the glacier.
Get more information about visiting El Calafate in my complete guide to the Perito Moreno Glacier.
Where to stay in El Calafate
On the northern side of El Calafate, but only a 10-minute walk to Avenida San Martín, pint-sized Posada Larsen ($100 USD double) is a standout choice for its views and friendliness. All six homely bedrooms look out across Lago Argentino – magical rain or shine – while breakfast is a delicious affair, featuring homemade bread and pastries. Book room #4 for the most extensive lake views.
Alternatively, a ten-minute walk or shorter bike ride and located in the converted main buildings of an old estancia, Kau Yatún ($200 USD standard double, $270 superior double) offers hotel facilities in a pretty, rural setting. Parts of the ranch are still in operation and you can take a free tour.
For those wishing to self-cater, Linda Vista Apart Hotel ($165 USD double) has functional but pretty cabins, all with kitchens and living areas.
Days nine and ten: Ushuaia
From El Calafate airport (FTE), fly to Ushuaia airport (USH). Direct flights take approximately 1h20 and cost around $175 if flying in the afternoon – with early flights costing as little as $70.
Described by many as at the very ends of the earth, Ushuaia has a magical quality, aided no end by its spellbinding scenery: situated at the edges of Tierra del Fuego island, it’s hemmed in by the Beagle Channel in the south and snow-heavy mountains in the north.
Founded as a penal colony, Ushuaia has a curious history. There’s no better place to learn about it than at the vast and fascinating Museo Maritimo y Museo del Presidio, which is set in the city’s former prison.
Alternatively, head for the White Continent from here to go to the true ends of the earth: expedition cruises to Antarctica leave from here, many of which visit Cape Horn along the way.
Need some advice for choosing an Antarctica cruise? I highly recommend Swoop Antarctica, whose staff have extensive, first-hand experience of sailing to Antarctica and, because they sell cruises for all the well-known companies, can give you handy, impartial advice for choosing the one that best suits you.
Argentina itinerary for fourteen days of travel
- Day one: Buenos Aires
- Days two to three: Iguazú Falls from Argentina and Brazil
- Days four to six: San Carlos de Bariloche
- Day seven: El Calafate
- Day eight: Puerto Natales
- Days nine and ten: Torres del Paine National Park
- Day eleven: El Calafate
- Days twelve and thirteen: El Chalten
- Day fourteen: Buenos Aires
Day one: Buenos Aires
Arrive at either Ezeiza International Airport or Aeroparque Internacional Jorge Newbery.
See the recommendations in the seven-day itinerary above for your time in Buenos Aires.
Days two to three: Iguazú Falls from Argentina and Brazil
Use the airport Aeroparque Internacional Jorge Newbery to fly to Puerto Iguazú, Argentina.
See the recommendations from the seven-day itinerary above for your time in Iguazú.
Days four to six: San Carlos de Bariloche
Fly from Iguazu to Bariloche; you’ll need to fly through Buenos Aires. Be aware that there are two airports in the city, the international airport, Ezeiza International Airport (EZE), and the domestic airport, Jorge Newbery Airport (AEP).
They aren’t close together, so either pick two flights leaving from the same airport or give yourself at least an hour and a half to get between the two.
See the recommendations from the 10-day itinerary for how to spend three days in Bariloche.
Day seven: El Calafate
Catch an early morning flight from San Carlos de Bariloche’s airport (BRC) to El Calafate (FTE). Flights take approximately 1h50, and cost around $100.
See the recommendations from the 10-day itinerary for how to spend a day in the city.
Day eight: Puerto Natales
Head to the bus terminal to catch a bus across the border to Puerto Natales ($25-32 USD, five to nine hours – depending on how long the border crossing takes).
As these tickets often sell out in high season, you may want to buy this a few days in advance to ensure you get a spot on the bus. Bus Sur, COOTRA and Turismo Zaahj run this route.
After your long day traveling, you’ll likely want to take the rest of the day slowly.
For a truly unique Patagonian dining experience, book a table at the matchbox-size Lenga (Bories 221) which uses fresh, local ingredients, such as eel cheeks, sea asparagus, guanaco and lamb, turned into mouthwatering, modern twists on traditional Patagonian dishes.
For a heartier dinner, opt for La Mesita Grande (Arturo Prat 196), a Puerto Natales institution named after the long, communal tables where diners eat together and known for its excellent pizzas, many of which are named after hiking routes in Torres del Paine.
Where to stay in Puerto Natales
Just a few blocks from the bus terminal and a ten-minute walk from downtown, charming Hostal Asói ($55,000 CLP double) offers homespun charm thanks to its incredibly friendly owners. Breakfast is ample, and can be arranged to suit your departure time, while the sunny, upstairs sofa area is a great place to relax.
The bedrooms are large, the showers hot, and central heating throughout keeps everything at a pleasant temperature.
Alternatively, As I found during my stay, sunsets across the Seno Última Esperanza are nothing short of spectacular from the vast windows of Simple Patagonia ($195 USD), four kilometers north of Puerto Natales.
Set within what looks like an original granero (barn), it combines modernity with astonishing views from the bedrooms (eight and 11 have the best) and living and dining area. They also offer up three-course dining in the evening, using local Magellanic ingredients to produce delicious, top-quality dishes.
For additional options, read my guide to the best Puerto Natales hotels – suitable for every budget.
Days nine and ten: Torres del Paine National Park
Unless you’re planning on hiking the W or the O Circuit, the best way to explore Torres del Paine National Park is with a rental car.
From Puerto Natales, head north along Ruta 9 and then northwest along the Y-290 to enter Torres del Paine National Park from its southern entrance, where you’ll get the best views of the Los Cuernos mountains that dominate the park.
Over the next few days, you’ve got time to hike the park’s ubiquitous route up to Mirador Las Torres where you’ll stand beneath the three sky-spearing shards of granite after which the park is named.
Day hikes and shorter routes to viewpoints abound in the national park, with the steep climb up to Mirador Ferrier for 180-degree views across the park and the short meander along Sendero Mirador Cuernos for dazzling views of Los Cuernos among the best.
Read my guide to day hikes in Torres del Paine National Park for detailed route information.
You can also go tracking pumas; the park is believed to be home to the highest concentration of these big cats in the world. There are many operators offering these tours, but if you want to stay overnight in the park, eat excellent local food, and be guided by some of the best in the business, opt for a two-day tour with Chile Nativo (use the referral code “Worldly Adventurer” for a 5% discount).
This tour takes you along some of the paths most frequented by the cats and has a close to 100% success rate for seeing them.
There are plenty of places to stay in Torres del Paine, but prices are high. If you’re on a small budget and want to self-cater (dining costs are high, too), Stock up on food in Puerto Natales and head to Cabañas Lago Tyndall ($168,000 CLP ($180 USD) four-person cabin), which is situated on a bend in the Río Serrano and a short drive from the southern entrance to the park.
If you’ve got a larger budget, you really can’t beat the views at Explora Patagonia ($8,760 USD double all-inclusive for three nights).
Bedrooms are done out in calming wood and neutral shades, the centerpiece undoubtedly the panoramic views of Lago Pehoé and Paine Massif – best experienced from the jacuzzi tubs that line the shores of the lake.
On the evening of your second day, return the car to Puerto Natales and stay overnight here.
Day eleven: El Calafate
Take the morning bus to El Calafate (again, it’s wise to book this ticket in advance). Book here.
Days twelve and thirteen: El Chalten
From El Calafate, catch a bus to El Chalten in the morning. Book here.
See the ten-day itinerary above for further inspiration on how to spend your time in this region, and where to stay.
Day fourteen: Buenos Aires
Catch a bus from El Chalten back to El Calafate, before boarding a flight to Buenos Aires. Flights take about 3 hours, and cost in the region of $280.
Argentina is one of the most-visited destinations in South America thanks to its vast landscapes, vibrant cities, an ever-growing wine and cuisine scene, and fascinating history – and when planning your visit, it can be hard to know what should make the cut. Read on to discover the coolest Argentine national parks, tips for adventure travel in Patagonia, the best places to visit in Argentina, and to find out the best time to visit the country.