Five Patagonia Itineraries For One And Two Weeks of Travel

The sky-piercing peaks of Torres del Paine National Park; the dense, milky blue hue of Glacier Perito Moreno; the huge wingspan of an Andean condor sailing through in the skies of Tierra del Fuego; every moment traveling through Patagonia is one of utter magic.

There are few other places on earth where nature and vast, hostile wilderness are so easily accessible. But, thanks to the region’s huge size and its dazzling array of unmissable sights, it’s never an easy task designing a Patagonia itinerary, particularly if you’ve only got one or two weeks to travel.

Why use these Patagonia itineraries?

Here’s why:

Patagonia covers an area over 402,000 square miles, making it two-thirds of the size of Alaska. What’s more, this region crosses into not one but two countries, meaning travel here can be more complicated as a result (and it’s useful to identify exactly where Patagonia is before you start planning your trip.

Finally, it’s a notoriously expensive part of the continent to visit, so a comprehensive Patagonia travel itinerary can help those planning a trip to Patagonia know how to stretch their holiday – and their budget – as far as possible (although if you want to take this even further, read about how to visit Patagonia on a budget).

These itineraries focus slightly more on Chilean Patagonia as, from my own travels around the region, I personally feel that the area is less developed in terms of tourism and, as a result, it’s a world away from the hordes of tourists that you now find across the border in Argentina. It’s also home to many of what I consider to be the best destinations to visit in Patagonia.

There are a lot more off-the-beaten-trail adventures to be had in Chilean Patagonia and it’s home to some of the region’s best hiking trails. It’s also – contrary to what most believe – cheaper to travel in Chilean Patagonia due to the huge rates of inflation currently affecting the Argentine economy.*

My recommendations for planning a Patagonia travel itinerary 

I’ve spent around six months altogether in Patagonia over the past few years, both travelling and research for the Moon Chile guidebook. 

I’ve written extensively about the region as part of my day job as a travel writer (as well as here on the blog, so check out my Patagonia archives).

I can’t count how many people whose Patagonia travel routes I’ve planned (you can find more information about my Patagonia trip planning service) and all have included the following pieces advice about planning a Patagonia itinerary:

• Patagonia is huge. Slim down your Patagonia travel itinerary, make the most of some of the lesser visited parts (we’ll go into that shortly) and you’ll enjoy the region more.
• Don’t try and fly from Chile to Argentina. It’s horribly expensive. Always fly internally from Santiago or Buenos Aires and then use one of the long-distance (and generally comfortable) buses to cross the border. You will save a lot of cash. Find a detailed guide to how to get to Patagonia here.

• LATAM (expensive), Sky Airlines (cheap) and Jet Smart (very cheap) are the main airlines in Chile. Compare prices through Skyscanner.com and then book directly for the best deals. Be aware that if you book through LATAM’s US site, you may well pay up to four times the price than if you buy it via their Chilean site. Unfortunately, the latter is in Spanish – so find someone who can help with the translation! Sometimes this isn’t the case though – but it’s worth check out the website in both English and Spanish to see the difference. 
• Internal flights in Argentina are significantly more expensive than those in Chile. You can save a few hundred dollars by flying into Santiago and then to Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales in Chilean Patagonia, rather than flying to Buenos Aires south to El Calafate in Argentine Patagonia.
• LATAM (expensive) and Aerolineas Argentina (cheaper but unreliable) are the main airlines in Argentina. Fly Bondi (cheap) is a new low cost airline, but it increasingly unreliable, so I would avoid them if you can.
• Be aware that booking flights, buses and car rental in advance during peak season (December through March) is generally necessary. The same goes for accommodation in places such as Ushuaia, El Calafate, El Chaltén and Puerto Natales.

• You will need to book your accommodation for the W, O and to stay in a hotel in Torres del Paine National Park from as early as June for visits in January and February, and at least two months in advance for trips at other times. This is because the park has become incredibly popular with tourists and there is a limited amount of accommodation. Sometimes it’s possible to find a spot in the campsites or refugios a couple of weeks in advance (tour agencies have provisionally booked up lodgings and not filled the spots which then get released back to the general public) so it’s worth checking back in regularly if you can’t get a spot. If you’ve missed out on accommodation, don’t despair: read my guide to your six options if you can’t get reservations in Torres del Paine.
• The shoulder seasons, October-November and March-April are far quieter for travelling in Patagonia and, in most cases, cheaper. Be aware that accommodation in smaller towns and some tourism agencies may not be operating in October or April. For more information, read this article about the best time to visit Chile and Patagonia. 
• Bus timings can and do vary depending on the season, so never trust 100% what is written on the internet. Always make the bus station your first port of call when you get to a new place to confirm timings and buy your tickets for the next leg of your journey. Bus Bud is good for finding schedules and booking buses in both Argentina and Chile.
• Before choosing to rent a car, read this packed post about planning a Patagonian road trip. It’ll save you time and money and contains three road trip itineraries along with other essential information.
• With a turbulent economy, it pays to do your research before your visit – this post shares everything you need to know about money in Argentina.
• Patagonia is probably the safest part of South America. I’ve hitchhiked in Patagonia without problems and met some of the world’s nicest people.
• I’ve written extensively on this subject, so make sure you head over to this really comprehensive, 15,000-word guide to travel in Patagonia, which covers everything from how to get there, where to go, where to stay and everything else in between.
• If you want something to take with you and have access to regardless of internet connection, you can get your hands on my guidebook, Moon Chile.
• If you’re on a budget, this guide to budget travel in Patagonia should help considerably, too. 

Patagonia itineraries for one week of travel

A one-week Patagonia itinerary isn’t the longest, but if you’ve got a reasonable budget for transport around the region, then you can still cram plenty into just seven days of travel.

These two Patagonia travel itineraries for one week include hiking Patagonia’s most famous trails, such as the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile and around El Chaltén, Argentina, as well as a visit to the mesmerising Perito Moreno Glacier.

Patagonia itinerary for one week of travel: Hike the W in Torres del Paine National Park

Overview of this one-week Patagonia itinerary:

• Day One: Santiago to Puerto Natales
• Day Two: The W trek hike to Glaciar Grey, Torres del Paine National Park
• Day Three: The W trek hike to Paine Grande, Torres del Paine National Park
• Day Four: The W trek hike to Valle Frances, Torres del Paine National Park
• Day Five: The W trek hike to Las Torres, Torres del Paine National Park
• Day Six: The W trek hike to Mirador Torres, Torres del Paine National Park
• Day Seven: Punta Arenas to Santiago

If you’ve only got a week to travel to Patagonia, chances are you’ll be starting from the Chilean capital Santiago. I would recommend flying into this city, rather than Buenos Aires in Argentina.

This is because Chile has one of the most extensive selections of internal flights of all countries in South America, meaning that you can fly to Patagonia quickly and affordably.

With one week in Patagonia, you can hike the fabled W trek, Torres del Paine’s most famous trail.

Day One: Santiago to Puerto Natales

The domestic terminal is inside the Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport in Santiago, although you will likely have to collect your baggage and check in to your internal flight.

Fly to Patagonia from Santiago to Puerto Natales (three hours, one or two per day $120 USD). There are more frequent, and slightly cheaper flights, from Santiago to Punta Arenas (three hours 35 minutes, every two hours, from $80 USD), a 3.5-hour bus journey south.

From the airport, take a transfer into Puerto Natales (around $4,000 CLP). Puerto Natales is the town closest to Torres del Paine National Park, known for its popular and rewarding five-day W trek.

Use the afternoon in Puerto Natales to buy food and organise your hiking gear (visit my complete guide to trekking the W in Torres del Paine National Park for all the information you need, including routes and packing lists).

You also need to book your bus tickets to the park in advance – at least a couple of days if travelling between December and February. The easiest way is online through Bus Bud, although there is more availability of companies if you head directly to the bus station in Puerto Natales.

Buy your park ticket in advance, too from here and make sure to download your QR while you have internet connection as there is none at the park entrance.

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Mid-range accommodation in Puerto Natales

Just a few blocks from the bus terminal and a ten-minute walk from downtown, charming Hostal Asói ($55,000 CLP double) offers homespun charm thanks to its incredibly friendly owners. Breakfast is ample, and can be arranged to suit your departure time, while the sunny, upstairs sofa area is a great place to relax. The bedrooms are large, the showers hot, and central heating throughout keeps everything at a pleasant temperature.

Luxury accommodation in Puerto Natales 

As I found during my stay, sunsets across the Seno Última Esperanza are nothing short of spectacular from the vast windows of Simple Patagonia ($312,000 CLP double)), four kilometers north of Puerto Natales. Set within what looks like an original granero (barn), it combines modernity with astonishing views from the bedrooms (eight and 11 have the best) and living and dining area. They also offer up three-course dining in the evening, using local Magellanic ingredients to produce delicious, top-quality dishes.

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Days Two-Six: Hike the W in Torres del Paine National Park

Take the bus from the bus terminal in Puerto Natales ($25,000 CLP return, two hours 15 minutes (to Laguna Amarga) four hours 15 minutes (to the catamaran stop) to Torres del Paine National Park and start trekking the W from either the west at Paine Grande or from the east at Torres Central. 

Multiple companies run the route and the bus timetables change constantly. Check out Bus Bud for up-to-date schedules.

Get more detailed information about preparing for the W trek without a tour, plus a complete guide to booking campsites and refugios in Torres del Paine National Park and this comprehensive guide to Torres del Paine National Park. 

If you’re struggling to get reservations for the W trek or want someone to organise all of the logistics for you, check out our local partner Chile Nativo. They give a 5% discount on tours in the park to Worldly Adventurer readers – just use the discount referral code “Worldly Adventurer” when you book!

Expect to stare across huge, sparkling glaciers, catch a glimpse of condors floating on thermals above and, in the light of dawn, admire the rearing silhouettes of the granite needles that give the park its name.

Day Seven: Santiago and home

Fly back to Santiago.

If you have a bit of extra time before your flight in Santiago, visit the Museo Chileno de Artes Precolombino (Chilean Museum of Pre-Colombian Art), with its incredible collection of pottery, textiles, and artwork covering the pre-Colombian civilizations across Latin America and go for traditional Chilean dishes at Liguria, a restaurant popular among local Santiaguinos and even Kate Moss.

Patagonia itinerary for one week of travel: Perito Moreno and hiking in Los Glaciares National Park

Overview of this one-week Patagonia itinerary:

• Day One: Buenos Aires to El Calafate
• Day Two: Visit Glacier Perito Moreno
• Days Three-Six: Hiking in El Chaltén
• Day Seven: Return to El Calafate and fly back to Buenos Aires

Many of those travelling in Patagonia will be flying directly into the region from Buenos Aires, from where it’s possible to fly south to El Calafate.

Again, a one week Patagonia travel itinerary isn’t a huge amount of time for visiting, but you still have the chance to appreciate Argentine Patagonia’s absolute highlights.

Day One: Buenos Aires to El Calafate

Fly to Patagonia on an early morning flight from Buenos Aires (read our guide to the Argentine capital) to El Calafate (four daily, three hours 15 minutes, from $158 USD return).

There’s not much to do in town (except for shopping in overpriced hiking gear shops), so in the afternoon, rent a bike and cycle to Punta Walichu, a cave network that’s home to 7,000-year-old cave paintings.

An alternative is the fascinating Glaciarium, with a range of informative displays, focusing on the Southern Patagonian Ice Field (including the nearby El Perito Moreno glacier). Downstairs, they even have an ice bar – although visits are limited to 30 minutes!

It’s six kilometres west of El Calafate in the direction of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. To get here, free transfers depart from Calle 1 de Mayo, between Roca and Libertador on the hour between 12 and 6pm daily.

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Where to eat in El Calafate

There’s nowhere better to sample Argentine Patagonia’s ultimate delicacy – spit roasted lamb – than at Rústico Asador, where you can watch them being barbecued to perfection over coals. Huge meat platters featuring top-quality Argentine steak and juicy chorizo are large enough for two, while dishes of salmon and trout also make up the small menu. The lake views from the dining room are the cherry on top.

It’s a ten-minute walk from the centre of El Calafate, but Pura Vida (Av. San Martín 1876) has hearty meat stews and pies – perfect for cold El Calafate nights. They also have plenty of vegetarian options if you’re feeling a little overwhelmed by all the meaty options. The atmosphere, with its roaring fire and chirpy waiters, is even more inviting than the menu.

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Budget accommodation in El Calafate

One of the cheapest self-catering options are the teeny cabins at Las Cabañitas (tel. 02902-491118, [email protected]). Set within a peaceful garden with picnic tables, the handful of cabins include a downstairs kitchenette plus an upstairs bedroom – the latter of which isn’t for those with claustrophobia. Bedrooms with shared bathrooms are larger, with access to a shared kitchen and communal area. The owner Ana is the ultimate host. 

Mid-range accommodation in El Calafate

On the northern side of El Calafate, but only a 10-minute walk to Avenida San Martín, pint-sized Posada Larsen ($100 USD double) is a standout choice for its views and friendliness. All six homely bedrooms look out across Lago Argentino – magical rain or shine – while breakfast is a delicious affair, featuring homemade bread and pastries. Book room #4 for the most extensive lake views. 

High-end accommodation in El Calafate 

A ten-minute walk or shorter bike ride and located in the converted main buildings of an old estancia, Kau Yatún ($200 USD standard double, $270 USD superior double) offers hotel facilities in a pretty, rural setting. Parts of the ranch are still in operation and you can take a free tour. 

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Day Two: Glacier Perito Moreno

At dawn, take a walk over to Reserva Laguna Nimez, where flocks of flamingos, black-necked swans and over 70 species of birds nest and are most active in the early morning.

Today’s the day for appreciating one of Patagonia’s greatest highlights: Glacier Perito Moreno.

To get to Los Glaciares National Park and the glacier, if there’s more than two of you, rent a taxi for the day for an agreed fee or take the bus from the main bus terminal (one hour thirty minutes, $50 USD return). Cal-Tur and Chaltén Travel run this route and often offer hotel pick ups – check this when you book. 

Entry into the park is around $35 USD (cash only or online here), but worth the expense, as you can walk up to the snout of this huge glacier thanks to a boardwalk that sits only a few hundred metres away.

You can take a one-hour boat tour up to the snout of the glacier (it’s impressive but I wasn’t sure it was worth it as the view from the boardwalks is fantastic already) with Southern Spirit ($50 USD per person, leaving from the boardwalk in front of the glacier).

Hielo y Aventura run ice trekking (“Mini Trekking”, one hour, thirty minutes on the ice from $280 USD; or the more demanding “Big Ice”, three hours 30 minutes on the ice, $490 USD).

Mil Outdoor also run kayaking tours (two and a half hours of paddling in double kayaks, $310 USD) and while you can’t get as close to the snout as the boat does due to safety concerns, it’s a far quieter and back-to-basics way of appreciating the glacier. 

Get more information about visiting El Calafate in our complete guide to the Perito Moreno Glacier. 

Days Three-Six: El Chaltén

Board an early bus to El Chaltén (three hours, $27 USD) from the bus station. When you arrive in El Chaltén, it’s a good idea to buy your bus ticket back to El Calafate if traveling in Patagonia in high season or buy one online through Bus Bud.

Spend the next three days of your one-week Patagonia itinerary in El Chaltén, Argentina’s self-designated hiking capital.

Set on the northern edge of Los Glaciares National Park, this town is within striking distance of plenty of Patagonia’s most famous hikes.

These include to the bewitching Laguna de los Tres (a personal favorite, but unfortunately one now rammed with hikers) and the flatter and less challenging routes to Laguna Torre, both of which give astounding views of the iconic Cerro Torre (the inspiration for the clothing brand, Patagonia’s, logo).

Far lesser-hiked is the criminally underrated Loma del Pliegue Tumbado trail, a challenging 18km, nine-hour out-and-back trail that takes you to the top of Piegue Tumbado, where you’re rewarded on a clear day with extraordinary panoramas back towards Cerro Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and Glaciar Torre.

The shorter trail to Mirador Los Cóndores and Mirador Águila is also worthwhile, with dazzling views of El Chaltén and the national park beyond.

For full information about the trails you should check out, visit this website entirely dedicated to self-guided hikes from El Chaltén.

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Where to eat in El Chaltén

You can’t miss sampling wine in Argentina, so head to the poky La Vinería (Av. Lago de Desierto 265), which has really knowledgeable staff and plenty of cheese and meat sharing platters to nibble on as you sip.

Go for unfiltered blonde or bock on tap at the popular La Cervecería (San Martín 320), where you can findhearty Patagonian dishes on offer too, including their famed locro soup (a spicy meat, maize and vegetable stew). 

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Budget accommodation in El Chaltén

Probably the best dorm options in town are at the popular Patagonia Hostel ($30 USD dorm, $68 USD double). It has a friendly, backpacker vibe, hot showers and is right on the main street. 

Mid-range accommodation in El Chaltén

Offering truly excellent value for money, the friendly and cosy Nothofagus B&B ($160 USD) also has wonderful Mont Fitz Roy views from some of its upstairs rooms. There are also plenty of living spaces around the guesthouse, plus a small cafeteria-style breakfast room downstairs.  

For self-catering, you can’t go wrong with Latitud 49˚ ($130 USD double apartment) and their modern apartments, complete with living room and kitchen. Owners Florencia and Lucas live next door and also have encyclopedic knowledge of El Chaltén, its restaurants and activities.

High-end accommodation in El Chaltén

Quite possibly the best views in town are from the plush sofas of the Los Cerros Boutique Hotel ($400 USD double), part of an Argentinean chain of hotels. Rooms are somewhat characterless and ask one with an even number for the best mountain views. There’s a jacuzzi and sauna plus bar and restaurant. 

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Day Seven: Return to El Calafate

Take the bus back to El Calafate and then fly back to Buenos Aires.

Changes you can make to this one-week Patagonia itinerary:

• If you’d rather visit Torres del Paine National Park rather than El Chaltén, swap the time in the latter town for a day trip or two from Puerto Natales instead – although you will spend a lot of time travelling between the two places.
• Buses leave in the morning and afternoon from the bus station in El Calafate ($25-32 USD, five to nine hours – depending on how long the border crossing takes). It’s recommended to book these tickets a day or two in advance as they can get booked up in high season. Bus Sur, Taqsa Marga and Turismo Zaahj run this route. 

Patagonia itineraries for two weeks of travel

Two weeks is a much more manageable time in Patagonia and means you’ll spend a lot less time travelling between destinations and more actually exploring the area.

In fourteen days in Patagonia, you can hike the O Circuit in Torres del Paine, explore the lesser-known but spectacular Carretera Austral and cover most of the region’s highlights. 

Patagonia itinerary for two weeks of travel: Highlights of Patagonia

Overview of this two-week highlight of Patagonia itinerary:

• Day One: Buenos Aires to El Calafate
• Day Two: Visit Glacier Perito Moreno
• Days Three-Six: Hiking in El Chaltén
• Day Seven: Return to El Calafate and onwards to Puerto Natales
• Day Eight: Puerto Natales and bus to Torres del Paine National Park
• Days Nine to Twelve: Hike the W in Torres del Paine National Park
• Day Thirteen: Bus from Puerto Natales to El Calafate
• Day Fourteen: Fly back to Buenos Aires

Many travellers want to see Patagonia’s “highlights”, which involves combining both of the two itineraries above.

These include hiking the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park (Chile), visiting El Perito Moreno Glacier (Argentina) and exploring the hiking routes of Los Glaciares National Park (Argentina). 

Day One: Buenos Aires to El Calafate

Fly to Patagonia on an early morning flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate (four daily, three hours 15 minutes, from $158 USD return).

There’s not much to do in town (except for shopping in overpriced hiking gear shops), so in the afternoon, rent a bike and cycle to Punta Walichu, a cave network that’s home to 7,000-year-old cave paintings.

An alternative is the fascinating Glaciarium, with a range of informative displays, focusing on the Southern Patagonian Ice Field (including the nearby El Perito Moreno glacier). Downstairs, they even have an ice bar – although visits are limited to 30 minutes!

It’s six kilometres west of El Calafate in the direction of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. To get here, free transfers depart from Calle 1 de Mayo, between Roca and Libertador on the hour between 12 and 6pm daily.

Where to eat in El Calafate

There’s nowhere better to sample Argentine Patagonia’s ultimate delicacy – spit roasted lamb – than at Rústico Asador, where you can watch them being barbecued to perfection over coals. Huge meat platters featuring top-quality Argentine steak and juicy chorizo are large enough for two, while dishes of salmon and trout also make up the small menu. The lake views from the dining room are the cherry on top.

It’s a ten-minute walk from the centre of El Calafate, but Pura Vida (Av. San Martín 1876) has hearty meat stews and pies – perfect for cold El Calafate nights. They also have plenty of vegetarian options if you’re feeling a little overwhelmed by all the meaty options. The atmosphere, with its roaring fire and chirpy waiters, is even more inviting than the menu.

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Budget accommodation in El Calafate

One of the cheapest self-catering options are the teeny cabins at Las Cabañitas (tel. 02902-491118, [email protected]). Set within a peaceful garden with picnic tables, the handful of cabins include a downstairs kitchenette plus an upstairs bedroom – the latter of which isn’t for those with claustrophobia. Bedrooms with shared bathrooms are larger, with access to a shared kitchen and communal area. The owner Ana is the ultimate host. 

Mid-range accommodation in El Calafate

On the northern side of El Calafate, but only a 10-minute walk to Avenida San Martín, pint-sized Posada Larsen ($100 USD double) is a standout choice for its views and friendliness. All six homely bedrooms look out across Lago Argentino – magical rain or shine – while breakfast is a delicious affair, featuring homemade bread and pastries. Book room #4 for the most extensive lake views. 

High-end accommodation in El Calafate 

A ten-minute walk or shorter bike ride and located in the converted main buildings of an old estancia, Kau Yatún ($200 USD standard double, $270 USD superior double) offers hotel facilities in a pretty, rural setting. Parts of the ranch are still in operation and you can take a free tour. 

For those wishing to self-cater, Linda Vista Apart Hotel ($165 USD double) has functional but pretty cabins, all with kitchens and living areas. 

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Day Two: Glacier Perito Moreno

At dawn, take a walk over to Reserva Laguna Nimez, where flocks of flamingos, black-necked swans and over 70 species of birds nest and are most active in the early morning.

Today’s the day for appreciating one of Argentine Patagonia’s greatest highlights: Glacier Perito Moreno.

To get to Los Glaciares National Park and the glacier, if there’s more than two of you, rent a taxi for the day for an agreed fee or take the bus from the main bus terminal (one hour thirty minues, $50 USD return).

Cal-Tur and Chaltén Travel offer run this route and often offer hotel pick ups – check this when you book. 

Entry into the park is around  $35 USD (cash only or online here), but worth the expense, as you can walk up to the snout of this huge glacier thanks to a boardwalk that sits only a few hundred metres away.

You can take a one-hour boat tour up to the snout of the glacier (it’s impressive but I wasn’t sure it was worth the expense as the view from the boardwalks is fantastic already) with Southern Spirit ($50 USD per person, leaving from the boardwalk in front of the glacier).

Hielo y Aventura run ice trekking (“Mini Trekking”, one hour, thirty minutes on the ice from $280 USD; or the more demanding “Big Ice”, three hours 30 minutes on the ice, $490 USD).

Mil Outdoor also run kayaking tours (two and a half hours of paddling in double kayaks, $310 USD) and while you can’t get as close to the snout as the boat does due to safety concerns, it’s a far quieter and back-to-basics way of appreciating the glacier. 

Get more information about visiting El Calafate in our complete guide to the Perito Moreno Glacier. 

Days Three-Six: El Chaltén

Board an early bus to El Chaltén (three hours, $27 USD) from the bus station. When you arrive in El Chaltén, it’s a good idea to buy your bus ticket back to El Calafate if travelling in Patagonia in high season or buy one online through Bus Bud.

Spend the next three days of your two week Patagonia itinerary in El Chaltén, Argentina’s self-designated hiking capital.

Set on the northern edge of Los Glaciares National Park, this town is within striking distance of plenty of Patagonia’s most famous hikes.

These include to the bewitching Laguna de los Tres  (a personal favorite, but unfortunately one now rammed with hikers) and the flatter and less challenging routes to Laguna Torre, both of which give astounding views of the iconic Cerro Torre (the inspiration for the clothing brand, Patagonia’s, logo).

If opting for the Laguna de los Tres hike, make sure you set off early – and factor in spending time at the top. If hiking the Laguna Torre route, once you reach the final viewpoint, on a clear day, follow the ridge to the right and you’ll find an even better view.

Far less hiked is the criminally underrated Loma del Pliegue Tumbado trail, a challenging 18km, nine-hour out-and-back trail that takes you to the top of Piegue Tumbado, where you’re rewarded on a clear day with extraordinary panoramas back towards Cerro Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and Glaciar Torre.

The shorter trail to Mirador Los Cóndores and Mirador Águila is also worthwhile, with dazzling views of El Chaltén and lots of condors.

For full information about the trails you should check out, visit this website entirely dedicated to self-guided hikes from El Chaltén.

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Where to eat in El Chaltén

You can’t miss sampling wine in Argentina, so head to the poky La Vinería (Av. Lago de Desierto 265), with really knowledgeable staff and plenty of cheese and meat sharing platters to nibble on as you sip.

Go for unfiltered blonde or bock on tap at the popular La Cervecería (San Martín 320) which has hearty Patagonian dishes on offer too, including their famed locro soup (a spicy meat, maize and vegetable stew). 

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Budget accommodation in El Chaltén

Probably the best dorm options in town are at the popular Patagonia Hostel ($35 USD dorm, $68USD double). It has a friendly, backpacker vibe, hot showers and is right on the main street. 

Mid-range accommodation in El Chaltén

Offering truly excellent value for money, the friendly and cosy Nothofagus B&B ($160 USD) also has wonderful Mont Fitz Roy views from some of its upstairs rooms. There are also plenty of living spaces around the guesthouse, plus a small cafeteria-style breakfast room downstairs.  

For self-catering, you can’t go wrong with Latitud 49˚ ($130 USD double apartment) and their modern apartments, complete with living room and kitchen. Owners Florencia and Lucas live next door and also have encyclopedic knowledge of El Chaltén, its restaurants and activities.

High-end accommodation in El Chaltén

Quite possibly the best views in town are from the plush sofas of the Los Cerros Boutique Hotel ($400 USD double), part of an Argentinean chain of hotels. Rooms are somewhat characterless and ask one with an even number for the best mountain views. There’s a jacuzzi and sauna plus bar and restaurant. 

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Day Seven: Return to El Calafate and onwards to Puerto Natales 

Take the bus back to El Calafate. Change buses at the terminal and board one to cross the border to Puerto Natales ($25-32 USD, five to nine hours – depending on how long the border crossing takes).

As these tickets often sell out in high season, you may want to buy this a few days in advance to ensure you get a spot on the bus. Bus Sur, Taqsa Marga, and Turismo Zaahj run this route. 

Where to eat in Puerto Natales

Upmarket Afrigonia covers all bases when it comes to Patagonian cuisine: seafood, lamb. and guanaco. Service is similar to most establishments in Puerto Natales – slow – but the food is absolutely worth the wait. Opt for the minted lamb chops, or conger eel, prawn, scallop, and mussel fish stew for the most local flavors

For a heartier dinner, opt for Mesita Grande, a Puerto Natales institution named after the long, communal tables where diners eat together and known for its excellent pizzas, many of which take the names of hiking routes in Torres del Paine.

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Budget accommodation in Puerto Natales 

It’s not quite “glamping,” but the excellent Yellow Plum Tent House ($14,000 CLP pitch, $40,000 CLP pitch and two-person tent) gets close. The 16 campsites are close together, but a heated restroom and shower block with 24-7 hot water and a covered cooking area with a stove, sink, and picnic tables make up for the tight sleeping quarters. The owners speak perfect English and rent out gear; free information for planning a trip to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is available.

Mid-range accommodation in Puerto Natales

Just a few blocks from the bus terminal and a ten-minute walk from downtown, charming Hostal Asói ($55,000 CLP double) offers homespun charm thanks to its incredibly friendly owners. Breakfast is ample, and can be arranged to suit your departure time, while the sunny, upstairs sofa area is a great place to relax. The bedrooms are large, the showers hot, and central heating throughout keeps everything at a pleasant temperature. 

Luxury accommodation in Puerto Natales 

As I found during my stay, sunsets across the Seno Última Esperanza are nothing short of spectacular from the vast windows of Simple Patagonia ($312,000 CLP double), four kilometers north of Puerto Natales.

Set within what looks like an original granero (barn), it combines modernity with astonishing views from the bedrooms (eight and 11 have the best) and living and dining area. They also offer up three-course dining in the evening, using local Magellanic ingredients to produce delicious, top-quality dishes.

If you’re looking for something a little different from the accommodation options listed here, we’ve pulled together a guide featuring 19 of the best Puerto Natales hotels across different budgets and travel styles.

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Day Eight: Puerto Natales and bus to Torres del Paine National Park 

Use the morning in Puerto Natales to buy food and organise your hiking gear (visit my complete season guide to trekking the W in Torres del Paine National Park for all the information you need, including routes and packing lists).

Take the afternoon bus at 2.30pm ($25,000 CLP) return, two hours 15 minutes (to Laguna Amarga) four hours 15 minutes (to the Catamaran stop) to Torres del Paine National Park and camp up either at Paine Grande (for the W trek hiking west to east) or Torres Central (for the W trek hiking east to west). 

Multiple companies run the route and the bus timetables change constantly. Check out Bus Bud for up-to-date schedules.

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Days Nine to Twelve: Hike the W in Torres del Paine National Park

Get all the detailed information about preparing for the W trek without a tour you need, plus a complete guide to booking campsites and refugios in Torres del Paine National Park. 

Expect to stare across huge, sparkling glaciers, catch a glimpse of condors floating on thermals above and, in the light of dawn, admire the rearing silhouettes of the granite needles that give the park its name.

Return to Puerto Natales by bus on the final day of your hike. 

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Day Thirteen: Puerto Natales to El Calafate

Return by bus to El Calafate (again, it’s wise to book this ticket in advance). 

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Day Fourteen: Flight home

Fly from El Calafate to Buenos Aires and catch your return flight home. 

Patagonia itinerary for two weeks of travel: The Carretera Austral

Overview of this two-week Carretera Austral Patagonia Itinerary:

• Day One: Puerto Montt to Puerto Varas
• Day Two: Puerto Varas to Hornopirén
• Days Three: Ferry from Hornopirén to Chaitén
• Day Four: Parque Nacional Pumalín
• Day Five: Puyuhuapi and the hanging glacier in Parque Nacional Queulat
• Days Six and Seven: Villa Cerro Castillo and Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo
• Day Eight: Puerto Río Tranquilo and the marble caves
• Days Nine: Parque Nacional Patagonia
• Days Ten and Eleven: The Naviera Austral ferry to Quellón
• Days Twelve and Thirteen: Chiloé Island
• Day Fourteen: Puerto Montt

This two-week itinerary covers a lot of ground: almost the entire length of the Carretera Austral – aka Chilean Patagonia’s ultimate road trip.

This 1,240km/770-mile road slices through the heart of northern Chilean Patagonia and offers dazzling natural landscapes at each and every turn.

Although two weeks is a little on the short side for seeing this part of Patagonia (I would recommend three weeks if you don’t want to feel rushed), it is possible to see the highlights in this period of time.

For more information about the highlights of this Patagonia itinerary, check out my guide to visiting the Carretera Austral.

Required equipment for this two-week Patagonia itinerary

Public transportation does exist along the Carretera Austral, but unless you’ve got plenty of flexibility to adapt to unreliable schedules and infrequent buses, you’re best off hiring a car. I would recommend reading this article about driving in Patagonia, which offers essential guidance about car rental, border crossings, insurance and other essentials for would-be road trippers

Day One: Santiago to Puerto Montt

Fly from Santiago to Puerto Montt (at least 11 flights per day, one hour 45 minutes, from $70 USD return).

Rent a car from the airport in Puerto Montt using Rental Cars, but confirm with the hire company that they will allow you to drive on the Carretera Austral – Econorent does.

From here, a 20-minute drive gets you to Puerto Varas – one of Chile’s most picturesque towns. Spend an afternoon soaking up its lakeside vantage point and – if the weather’s sunny – the views across the water to Volcán Osorno from the beach.

Drive east around the lake to visit Saltas de Petrohué, a set of dazzling waterfalls set in the shadow of the volcano.

Where to eat in Puerto Varas

Eat overlooking the lake at Mesa Tropera (Santa Rosa 161), a chic pizzeria serving up their own locally brewed craft beer.

Alternatively, slick La Vinoteca is a wine bar-cum-shop imported from Santiago that has quickly become one of Puerto Varas’ trendiest restaurants. Choose from their enviable list of wines by the glass or bottle and enjoy it alongside a fancy take on contemporary Chilean fare: the scallops with parmesan, leeks, and cream are particularly delicious, but their steaks also hold their own against specialist asado restaurants.

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Budget accommodation in Puerto Varas

With plenty of communal space and big bedrooms, MaPatagonia Hostel Monumento Nacional ($12,000 CLP/$13 USD dorm, $33,000 CLP/$35 USD double) is the sister building of the popular Hostel MaPatagonia, just with plenty more room. It’s exceptionally sociable, has two kitchens—one for vegetarians—and communal meals once per week for a small cost.

Mid-range accommodation in Puerto Varas

Stay overnight in Compass del Sur (from $57,000 CLP/$60 USD double), possibly my favourite B&B in Patagonia thanks to its huge rooms, kitchen and delicious, home-made breakfast. They’re also experts on the region so have plenty of local knowledge. 

High-end accommodation in Puerto Varas

Set right on the shores of the lake (it’s a 20-minute drive north east from Puerto Varas) AWA ($450,000 CLP ($477 USD) double is a five-star option with a swimming pool and an excellent restaurant also open to the public. All bedrooms have mesmerising views of the volcano. 

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Day Two: Puerto Varas to Hornopirén

Spend the morning rafting along the Río Petrohué’s Class III and IV rapids with local specialists ALSUR Expediciones or stop by Parque Nacional Alerce Andino, a little-visited park packed full of lagoons where austral parakeets roost, tumbling waterfalls, and three-thousand-year-old forests, plus a handful of beautiful trails.

Drive south to Hornopirén (3 hours) and stay overnight in the cosy bedrooms of Hosteria Catalina.

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Day Three: Ferry from Hornopirén to Chaitén

Board the SOMARCO ferry at 10am to Caleta Gonzalo (4.5 hours, $69,500 CLP/$73 USD) per vehicle including passengers; price includes ferry to Leptepú and then onwards to Caleta Gonzalo).

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Where to eat and stay in Chaitén

Hands down the best restaurant in town, El Volcán has questionable decor—be sure to salute the out-of-place king penguins at the door—but their seafood is second to none. The salmon ceviche and pan-fried salmon are standout dishes, while the chupe de centolla (king crab stew) moreish. Reservations necessary during high season.

Stay overnight in the cabins at the fancier Caleta Gonzalo (from $197,000 CLP/$208 USD two-person cabin) or drive south to Chaitén (1 hour) and bed down at Chucao Bosque y Cabañas ($67,000 CLP/$72 USD two-person cabin).

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Day Four: Parque Nacional Pumalín

Enjoy Parque Nacional Pumalín (book entry online here), one of the most spectacular parks along the Carretera Austral, packed full of hiking opportunities, hot springs and kayaking.

My favorite trail is the challenging Sendero Volcán Chaitén, a 4.4km round trip. The trail ascends steeply through lush forest and quickly climbs out of the greenery into the path of the eruption, now a landscape of charred tree trunks. A final steep climb leads to the edge of the 3.5 km-wide crater for phenomenal views of the still-steaming volcano and the destruction of the surrounding landscape.

Stay overnight in Caleta Gonzalo or Chaitén.

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Day Five: Puyuhuapi and Parque Nacional Queulat

Drive south to Puyuhuapi (2.5 hours) and spend the afternoon in Parque Nacional Queulat (book entry online here), where the spectacular Ventisquero Queulat (or Queulat Hanging Glacier) is located; the moderate Sendero Mirador del Ventisquero that climbs through evergreen southern beech forest reaches a viewpoint across from the glacier.

Last entry is at 2.30pm, so don’t get there too late – and make sure you purchase your ticket in advance online here and download it while you still have cell service.

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Budget/mid-range accommodation in Puyuhuapi

Stay overnight in the affordable family-run Hostería Alemana ($58,000 CLP/$61 USD double), which is welcoming and good value for the money, particularly if you ask for a newer room, with modern white bath suites and views of the lovely garden. Breakfast is ample, with cheese and bread plus the occasional cake or kuchen.

High-end accommodation in Puyuhuapi

Alternatively, book a night or two at the Puyuhuapi Lodge & Spa ($335,000 CLP/$335 USD double B&B). Accessible by speedboat from a signposted jetty 15km south of Puyuhuapi, the lodge is on Fiordo Puyuhuapi, where squat toninas (Chilean dolphins), seabirds, and other marine life are visible. Three outdoor hot springs pools are down a short path through the woods, with sun loungers and views.

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Days Six and Seven: Villa Cerro Castillo and Parque Nacional Villa Cerro Castillo

Drive south to Villa Cerro Castillo (6 hours) via Coyhaique, the largest town along the Carretera Austral and a great place to pick up provisions in the large UNIMARC supermarket located there.

Spend the following day hiking the Sendero Mirador Laguna Cerro Castillo, a climb up the southern flank of Cerro Castillo, a castle-shaped peak in the middle of the park. You gain 1,000 meters climbing through forests of ñirre, Chilean fire tree, and Calafate bushes to reach scree for the steep final 2km. The reward for the unrelenting ascent is a view of mountains and Laguna Cerro Castillo.

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Where to stay in Villa Cerro Castillo

Stay in the overpriced (but most comfortable) B&B Cerro Castillo ($207,000 CLP/$220 USD double two-person cabin; cash only) or friendly Senderos Patagonia’s new double rooms.

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Day Eight: Río Tranquilo and the marble caves

Drive south to Puerto Río Tranquilo (3 hours) and visit the marble caves on the cyan waters of Lago General Carrera. These rock formations contain marble in all colors of the rainbow and are made even more picturesque thanks to the water’s hue. Speedboat tours last for around 1.5 hours and cost $20,000 CLP ($21 USD) per person. 

If you pay a further $10,000 CLP, you can take an extended, three-hour trip across the lake to Puerto Sánchez, where there are further caves – and fewer tourists – and they’re more accessible by boat.

Whichever tour you choose, go in the early morning for the best lighting, although departures depend on weather conditions, as waves in the lake can be fierce.

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Where to eat in Puerto Río Tranquilo

Service by the beret-wearing waiters matches the sluggish pace of things in Patagonia, but Casa Bruja has the most extensive menu in the village, offering excellently cooked meat, grilled fish, and more inventive options such as lamb slow-cooked in a cilantro sauce. The icing on the top is good views of the lake.

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Budget accommodation in Puerto Río Tranquilo

Accommodation options are fairly limited. The best budget choice – and popular with backpackers – is the family-run Bellavista ($5,000/$5 USD camping, $15,000 CLP/$16 USD dorm, $25,000 CLP/$26 USD double), which has a small kitchen and simple but clear rooms. 

Mid-range accommodation in Puerto Río Tranquilo

El Puesto ($110,000 CLP ($168 USD) double) is somewhat over-priced but is the smartest option in the town and has pretty wooden bedrooms with white linens.

High-end accommodation in Puerto Río Tranquilo

50 kilometers south of the town, Mallin Colorado Ecolodge ($260,000 CLP/275 USD) double, $320,000 CLP/$340 USD) two-person cabin) is a lovely lodge with pleasant views across the lake, a restaurant on-site for guests and even their own hiking trails starting from the property (read my review of this Patagonian lodge).

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Day Nine: Parque Nacional Patagonia

Drive south to Valle Chacabuco (2.5 hours), a part of the beautiful Parque Nacional Patagonia (book entry online here). The Valle Chacabuco Sector of the park has some of the best hiking in the region through varied landscapes: the western edges of the park are wet and mountainous, containing southern beech forests; the eastern side, flanking the Argentine border, is home to arid steppe.

The most popular hike is the moderate Lagunas Altas trail, which climbs the flanks of Cerro Tamanguito. The path ascends steadily and is exposed for the first few kilometers before it reaches lenga forest and a mirador on a scree ridge with striking views along Valle Chacabuco.

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Where to eat and stay in Parque Nacional Patagonia

The park has excellent facilities if you’ve got camping equipment or are on a big budget. Otherwise, you’ll need to stay elsewhere (either drive back to your lodgings north or stay an hour south in Cochrane).

There are three campsites in the park, the most central being Los West Winds campground ($8,000 CLP/$9 USD), which has covered picnic areas and basic toilet facilities, including solar panel showers (but bring your own toilet paper and soap!). It’s one kilometer from the Visitor’s Centre and restaurant.

The only other lodgings in the park is the beautiful Explora Parque Nacional Patagonia (from $2,500 USD double all-inclusive, minimum 2-night stay), with sweeping views across the steppe of the valley and a living area with floor-to-ceiling windows and a terrace for appreciating the scenery.

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Days Ten and Eleven: Naviera Austral Ferry to Quellón

Drive north to Puerto Cisnes (8-9 hours) to stay overnight, The following morning, catch the Naviera Austral ferry to Quellón (12.5 hours, from $209,000 CLP ($221 USD) per vehicle plus $30,500 CLP ($32 USD) per passenger), a town in the south of Chiloé Island.

This is a beautiful journey north, just be aware that it only departs four times per week and is better taken from Puerto Cisnes to Quellón (not the other way around) because in this direction, it sails during the day so you actually get to see the scenery of the fjords.

Note that tickets give you a seat on the boat (like a reclining seat on a bus), not a cabin. When you reach Quellón (which you’ll likely reach around midnight/1am), stay overnight at Hotel Mitos ($66,000 CLP/$70 USD double).

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Days Twelve and Thirteen: Chiloé Island

Base yourself in Castro, a 1.5-hour drive north. Explore the palafitos (old fishermen dwellings on stilts) of Castro, take a day trip out to Cucao to hike in the beautiful Parque Tepuhuieco, or drive out to Isla Quinchao or Isla Lemuy for the day.

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Where to eat and stay in Castro

A guitar hangs above the door at the quirky Mercadito de Chiloé, where the focus is on fresh seafood—the best in Castro. The menu changes with the seasons and what they can source from local suppliers. The hake with black garlic and barbecued sweet potato is a great celebration of local ingredients. Don’t miss the murta sour in earthenware cups.

Stay overnight in one of Castro’s palafitos, such as the beautiful Sizigia ($109,000 CLP/$115 USD double), whose eight modern bedrooms are in keeping with their traditional surroundings and central heating and floor-to-ceiling windows, with six boasting gorgeous sea views.

Alternatively, expect a warm welcome at friendly Estacion Hostel ($35,000 CLP/$37 USD double shared bath), a guesthouse on the eastern edge of the city. Rooms are a little dark, but everything is spotless, with access to a large, well-equipped kitchen and spacious communal dining area.

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Day Fourteen: Puerto Montt

Drive north back to Puerto Montt (4.5-5) hours via the boat from the Chacao port (operates 24 hours, 30 mins, $14,500 CLP ($15 USD) vehicle with passengers). Keep your eyes peeled for toninas (Chilean dolphins) riding the waves at the front of the boat.

Return the vehicle to the airport and fly back to Santiago and home.

Changes you could make to this Patagonia itinerary for two weeks of travel:

• If you want to visit San Rafael, a hanging glacier that is receding so quickly that experts are concerned it’ll soon disappear completely, spend an extra day in Río Tranquilo and organise a tour with Destino Patagonia located here. These tours are expensive ($180,000 CLP/$190 USD) – but reportedly worth it.
• If you’re really into long-distance hiking, there’s a 50km/31-mile hike that starts in Parque Patagonia and crosses into Argentina.
• If you have more time, consider heading further south to Caleta Tortel, a fjordside village without roads, taking the car ferry from here all the way to Puerto Natales, or spending time in Chile Chico to visit Sector Jeinimeni of Parque Nacional Patagonia, from where you can also cross into Argentina.

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Patagonia itinerary for two weeks of travel: The O Circuit, Torres del Paine National Park

Overview of this two-week Torres del Paine National Park itinerary:

• Day One: Fly from Santiago to Puerto Natales
• Day Two: Explore Puerto Natales
• Days Three-Eleven: Hike the O Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park
• Days Twelve-Fourteen: Off-the-beaten-path in Cabo Froward

If you want to spend less time on buses and more time trekking in the Patagonian Andes, this travel itinerary is likely more your style.

Although plenty of visitors to the region trek the five-day W, far fewer attempt the O Circuit, a nine- or ten-day trek that winds through wilder parts of the national park and gives a better sense of what Patagonia once was before tourism arrived.

Although it is challenging if you’ve not tried multi-day hiking before, there are ways that you can prepare for the experience: read about 14 essential things to know before you hike the O Circuit.

Required equipment for this two-week Patagonia itinerary

Although camping equipment isn’t entirely necessary for this two-week itinerary, it can work out cheaper than renting all of your gear in Puerto Natales. You will also need a cooking stove, plus pots and pans.

Read my packing list for Torres del Paine National Park to give you some ideas of the equipment that you will need.

Day One: Santiago to Puerto Natales

Fly to Patagonia with from Santiago to Punta Arenas (three hours 35 minutes, every two hours, from $80 USD return).

If you’re planning a trip to Patagonia, Chile between December and February, LATAM offers flights directly to Puerto Natales from Santiago (around four, three hours 10 minutes, from $80 USD return).

From the airport in Punta Arenas, board a bus to Puerto Natales (three hours 30 mins, around $8,000 CLP ($12 USD)). Check out Bus-Sur, Buses Pacheco and Buses Fernandez who run this route.

You must buy your ticket on the internet because they do not sell bus tickets to Puerto Natales in the airport.

Where to eat in Puerto Natales

For a truly unique Patagonian dining experience, book a table at the matchbox-size Lenga (Bories 221) which uses fresh, local ingredients, such as eel cheeks, sea asparagus, guanaco and lamb, turned into mouthwatering, modern twists on traditional Patagonian dishes. 

For a heartier dinner, opt for La Mesita Grande (Arturo Prat 196), a Puerto Natales institution named after the long, communal tables where diners eat together and known for its excellent pizzas, many of which are named after hiking routes in Torres del Paine.

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Budget accommodation in Puerto Natales 

The cheapest accommodation in Puerto Natales is camping at Jos Mar II ($6,000 camping per person ($9 USD)), who have eight grassy spots with picnic tables, plus a shower block with hot water and a small indoor kitchen with fridge.

For upmarket lodgings – at very affordable prices – stay at the characterful, vintage-style Vinnhaus ($13,000 dorm ($20 USD), $38,000-$50,000 double ($58 USD-$77 USD), where a 1920s house has been converted into smart, modern accommodation, with a comfortable attached cafe and grassy patio.

Mid-range accommodation in Puerto Natales

Comfortable beds, quirky, modern décor and access to a number of snug communal areas with squishy sofas and wood-burning stoves make Amerindia Hostal ($48,000-$55,000 double ($74 USD-$84 USD)) a great choice for couples or single travellers who don’t want to stay in dorms. 

Luxury accommodation in Puerto Natales 

As I found during my stay, sunsets across the Seno Última Esperanza are nothing short of spectacular from the vast windows of Simple Patagonia ($127,000 double ($195 USD)), four kilometers north of Puerto Natales. Set within what looks like an original granero (barn), it combines modernity with astonishing views from the bedrooms (eight and 11 have the best) and living and dining area. They also offer up three-course dining in the evening, using local Magellanic ingredients to produce delicious, top-quality dishes.

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Day Two: Puerto Natales

Spend the day getting your food and your hiking gear sorted if you’ve not brought camping equipment for the O Circuit with you.

If you’ve got a bit more time to spare, consider going horseriding on the outskirts of the national park or horseriding and a barbecue and estancia experience at the incredible Estancia La Peninsula.

Days Three-Eleven: Hiking the O Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park

If you’re wondering where to hike in Patagonia, look no further than the O Circuit, a nine-day trek through the pristine scenery of Torres del Paine National Park.

This trek is much quieter than the W and promises even more spectacular scenery, including views of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field from the trek’s highest point, Paso John Gardner.

Get planning with this complete guide to the Torres del Paine O Circuit.

Days Twelve-Fourteen: Cabo Froward

Head back to Punta Arenas and hire a car for the next three days (I recommend Rental Cars as they give you your insurance documents in English).

Stock up on food and water in one of the supermarkets in the city – UNIMARC generally has the best food (and wine!!) selection.

From Punta Arenas, it’s only an hour’s drive to the end of the road near Cabo Froward (the southernmost point of the Americas).

While the trek to reach the cross that marks this point is a five-day round trip, you can instead spend an afternoon wandering along the beach to stare across the Strait of Magellan at the looming peaks of Isla Dawson and Tierra del Fuego beyond.

Be aware of the tide, as it can turn quickly and catch you out.

There’s also plenty of wild camping spots (unfortunately most covered in rubbish) and a beautiful little campsite “A Las Perras” that you’ll find signposted a short distance before you pass through San Juan. Alternatively, if you haven’t got camping gear, return to Punta Arenas for the night.

The next morning, drive back along the road towards Punta Arenas and visit Pali Aike, a barely-known national park that is home to strange volcanic landforms, plenty of guanaco and rheas and the possibility of seeing Chilean flamingos and even pumas.

There are a number of hikes around the park and you can stay overnight in the cabañas (cabins) found at Hostal San Gregorio ($15,000 CLP/$22 USD p/p) in Punta Delgada. They also serve a tasty and inexpensive dinner menu and breakfast (both of which are enormous).

Changes you could make to this Patagonia itinerary for two weeks of travel:

• If you like penguins, swap the visit to Cabo Froward for a drive over to Tierra del Fuego to visit the king penguin colony at Parque Pinguino Rey, Bahía Inútil. It’s open from 11am-6pm with last entry at 5pm and entry is $12,000 CLP ($18 USD). Tour groups arrive normally at around 1pm and 2pm so try and avoid these times. You now need to reserve a ticket via their online system. 

• If you’ve a couple more days to add to the trip, miss out Cabo Froward and drive directly to the penguin colony and continue onwards to Lago Blanco, where you can stay overnight in the extremely comfortable cabañas at Hosteria Las Lengas (four-person cabin $83,300 CLP/$125 USD, double room $134,470 CLP/$202 USD). They do offer food, but your best bet is to bring food with you as they have fully-equipped kitchens and BBQs.
• If you want to visit El Calafate and El Chaltén, swap the O Circuit for hiking the W and use the additional four days to visit these two towns.
• Want to head to the White Continent? Most departures for Antarctica leave from Ushuaia. For the best experience, I highly recommend the brilliant Swoop Antarctica. Their staff have extensive, first-hand experience of sailing to Antarctica and, because they sell cruises for all the well-known companies, they can give you handy, impartial advice for choosing the one that best suits you. What’s more, they specialize in small ship expedition cruises, which means you’ll be allowed to get off the boat at every stop on the itinerary (which is not the case for large ships!) and you won’t pay a cent more by booking through them rather than directly with the cruise company themselves. Check out their classic cruises to the Antarctica Peninsula, or their more unusual trips to wildlife-rich South Georgia and the Falklands, or, if you’re short on time, fly in and cruise out.

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