There’s nothing quite like knowing that if you make a wrong move, you’re going straight into the chilly waters of the river beneath you.
That was my gut feeling as my guide, Diego, talked us through safety as we prepared to whitewater raft down the 108-kilometer (67-mile) Río Pacuare in Costa Rica. National Geographic named the Río Pacuare as one of the world’s top ten scenic rivers to raft – so I knew I was in for a thrilling ride.
Most just do a one-day rafting excursion, starting from San Martin and emerging a few hours later at the town of Squirres. I spent four days along the river, both rafting and kicking back in a wonderfully remote jungle lodge; let me talk you through the experience.
What’s it like to raft the Río Pacuare
If you’ve never been rafting before, then launching yourself down the Class III and IV rapids of Costa Rica’s Río Pacuare might be a shock to the system.
Rapids are classified according to their difficulty. Class I are easy-peasy, while Class VI are gnarly and even dangerous, so should be left to the pros. The river’s class III and IV rapids might sound a little intimidating, particularly if you don’t have any rafting experience.
But this is actually a river that anyone can raft, even if you’ve never had a go before – and one that I highly recommend you try.
You’ve got a couple of options for whitewater rafting on the Río Pacuare. Most visitors do a day tour, starting around 5.30 am in San José with a transfer to the San Martin put-in, where you’ll have breakfast, a safety briefing, and put on your life vest.
From here, it’s an invigorating 26-kilometer (16.3-mile) paddle down (you stop for lunch en-route) to the town of Squirres, where you finish.
Expect to be on the river for around five hours and pass through rapids that alternate between Class III and Class IV; luckily, the first few are pretty gentle, which gives you the opportunity to get used to following the instructions of your guide and finding your footing within the boat to avoid going overboard.
The scenery is breathtaking: thick tropical rainforest clings to the riverbank, and you should keep your eyes peeled for monkeys, toucans, and other wildlife in the canopy above you.
After about three hours, the river begins to narrow, funelling you into the Pacuare River Gorge. When I say that this was the most beautiful stretch of river I’ve ever seen, I’m not exaggerating.
It feels like you’ve been swallowed up by a time machine and found yourself back in the Age of the Dinosaurs: sheer canyon walls tower above you, dripping with jungle.
It’s rich in wildlife, too: acaris chatter in the canopy above, tiger herons stand stock still and knee-deep in the shallows, and iridescent kingfishers swoop downriver as you approach.
At this stage, you’re hitting some of the bigger rapids, with a sequence of Class IV- (Double Drop) and Class IV (Upper Huacas and Lower Huancas), but there are plenty of gaps between them, allowing you to put your oar down and just enjoy the magic around you.
From these class IVs, you’ve got a more relaxed sequence of class III rapids: Upper Pinball, Lower Pinball, Guatemala, and Cimarronesm, before a break for lunch. From here, the river widens again, giving you a clearer view of the jungle that sweeps upward into the mountains. Keep your eyes peeled for monkeys and coatis, who can sometimes be found in the trees above the banks.
Before you reach Squirres, there’s a final thrill ride through two class IVs, Wall of Sorrow and Dos Montañas, before finishing with the more gentle Las Ranitas (III). Expect a rude awakening when you emerge at the final river bend to paddle beneath the town of Squirres’ traffic-choked road bridge and pull into the riverbank beyond; you’ve left the Lost World behind for good.
Why you should stop overnight along the Río Pacuare
Rather than speed through the experience, I would highly recommend stopping overnight at Rios Lodge, one of the hotels along the Río Pacuare.
The five hours of paddling in the sun and heat that you’ll experience on the one-day tour can be extremely tiring.
I much preferred breaking the rafting into two chunks: two to three hours of paddling to the lodge on day one, followed by a day or two spent enjoying the surroundings, and then, on the final day, a three or four-hour journey down to Squirres, ready to face the more challenging Class IV rapids.
Rios Lodge is a reknowned eco-lodge overlooking the river, which sits within a 1,000-hectare private reserve that the owners have painstakingly replanted with over 50,000 native trees.
The scenery there is so beautiful that it was a joy to hide away in this little slice of paradise, and, because it can only be reached by raft (two to three hours from San Martin down Class III rapids) or a moderate 45-minute hike, you feel completely removed from civilization.
While this is thrilling for visitors, it presented a bit of a problem when constructing the lodge; all of the materials used were brought in by raft, with 500 rafting trips needed for the new eco-hostel.
This isn’t a five-star hotel, however, it’s definitely more than comfortable. Almost all of the private cabins and rooms (from $1,041 double room all-inclusive, with transfers, rafting in/out, meals, and activities included) overlook the river and were completely remodelled in 2023.
They’re light and airy, and it feels like you’re in a Swiss cabin, just in the middle of the jungle. In my room (the Riverview Suite), a mosquito screen gave out onto a large balcony with expansive views upstream of the river.
There’s no glass used for windows, which allows for the breeze to circulate and cool the room, rather than expensive and unenvironmentally-friendly A/C. It also means the roar of the river is incessant, so if you’re a light sleeper, you might want to bring earplugs.
However, for me, it had the opposite effect, and its reassuring consistency lulled me to sleep – although I woke in the middle of the night thinking I was floating down a gentle river on a wooden raft and had to touch the bedroom wall to remind myself where I was.
If you’re on a smaller budget, their new eco-hostel makes for one of the most affordable places to stay along the Río Pacuare. It has 64 bunkbeds across eight sizeable dorm rooms (from $542.50 pp dorm all-inclusive, with transfers, rafting in/out, meals, and activities included) all with plenty of storage and electrical outlets, plus access to shared, gender-specific bathrooms.
For all guests, transfers from San Jose are included; they can arrange transportation from other parts of Costa Rica for an additional fee.
I found the meals excellent (ask the staff about how they got the fridge down the river by raft!), with a set, three-course menu featuring fresh, local ingredients served in their airy dining room and bar that overlooks the river. After rafting, the shady terrace hung with hammocks hit the spot.
I stayed three nights, which gave me the opportunity to experience some of the lodge’s other activities. They’ve got a remarkable zipline course – dubbed one of the world’s best by USA Today – with eight sections that zig zag across the river, with incredible views of the river and gorge as you fly through the treetops.
I’m not one for heights, but I thoroughly enjoyed the view, even on the longest line, which measures a frightening 280 meters (915 feet) long. It’s very safe, having been built to industry standards and well maintained, and you’re accompanied by bilingual staff who guide you along the course and make sure your harness is strapped correctly onto the zip lines.
If you’ve no head for heights, there are also a couple of short trails to waterfalls, such as El Tigre (which after a hot and humid hike through the jungle, was the perfect place to swim), one-hour night hikes to spot wildlife such as snakes and frogs, as well as two-hour tubing excursions.
The latter are in an inflatable, donut-shaped ring that you sit in to be taken down some gentle Class I and II rapids – although I did fall out once, so perhaps they’re not that gentle!
What I also loved about the lodge is its commitment to the environment. It’s powered entirely by solar and hydroelectricity, building materials are reclaimed, where possible, and you won’t find any single-use plastics around.
Even more importantly, the original owner of the lodge, Rafa Gallo, was also at the forefront of conservation along the river, successfully preventing the Costa Rican government from building a hydroelectric dam. This ultimately led to the government signing into law that no hydroelectric plants would be built here until 2040 at the earliest.
The new team, who took over the lodge in 2022 after Rafa sadly passed away, is continuing his legacy by protecting the primary and secondary rainforest at the lodge and buying additional nearby secondary forest to conserve.
How much whitewater rafting experience do you need?
The key thing to know about whitewater rafting is that you’re in control of how you sit in the raft and row, it’s your guide who’s really in charge.
Diego, my guide, was from an Indigenous community a 45-minute hike across the mountains and had been rafting the river since he was a child; therefore, his paddle, which he used to steer and slow the raft where needed, was the reason that I didn’t take an ice-cold bath.
Before you enter the water, your guide will fit you with a life vest, helmet, and a paddle and give you a detailed run-through of how to raft, including how to follow his commands; once you’re out on the water, he’ll be bellowing commands such as “forward”, “back” and “up” from the stern. Doing as you’re told is the best way of avoiding going overboard.
You’ll also receive safety instructions. Pay attention; while the likelihood of you falling out of the raft is slim, if you do, the water is extremely powerful and can bounce you around on the rocky riverbed if you don’t do what he tells you. Being thrown out is part of the fun, apparently – and, while I’m not the world’s best swimmer, I still felt confident that I would be ok regardless.
You’re also joined by a safety kayaker; they’re there to help if anyone falls overboard and also to take plenty of photos, which you can purchase at the end of the rafting. My facial expressions were a bit too much for me to want to buy my pictures…
The Class III rapids from San Martin to where the Rios Lodge is located are absolutely doable for everyone from the age of six upwards – although during the rainy season, May through November, there’s an age limit of eight due to raised water levels, which can make the rapids a bit more challenging.
The second stretch of the river – from Rios Lodge to Squirres – is more challenging, and I felt more confident having rafted previously in places such as Chile. However, officially, you don’t need any previous experience and companies allow children over the age of 12 to do it.
Bear in mind that you’ll also have had a bit of a crash course in rafting over the first couple of hours, so you should be feeling more confident by the time you reach the bigger rapids.
Know before you go
- A one-day tour typically takes five hours. You’ll need a moderate level of fitness to be able to enjoy the experience.
- Day tours start around 5.30am from San Jose. Overnight stays can start later in the day.
- Closed-toe shoes, such as sneakers or river shoes, are best for rafting. This is because you tuck your feet under the air tube in front of you, which can cause your toes to get crushed. You can also wear water sandals (such as Tevas); just make sure they attach securely to your feet so you don’t lose one in the water!
- It can be extremely sunny on the river, so sunglasses are a must-have. Make sure you secure them to your head with a strap.
- Bring plenty of waterproof sunscreen. To protect the river, make sure it’s eco-friendly.
- Wear quick-drying clothing, such as a rash vest over exercise leggings or swimming shorts. Avoid having too much skin exposed to escape getting sunburnt.
- If staying overnight at Rios Lodge, you’ll leave the majority of your luggage in a secure lock-up before entering the raft. The rest will come with you on the boat (within a heavy-duty dry bag and secured to the raft). Because of the humidity levels in the jungle, clothing does not dry, so make sure you bring enough clean, dry clothing for your stay.
- For the best rafting conditions, visit between mid-May and mid-December. This is Costa Rica’s “green” season and when water levels are at their highest. However, even during the dry season, water levels can fluctuate considerably throughout the day.
Other incredible lodges to visit in Costa Rica
I spent a month exploring different parts of Costa Rica, and there are plenty of lodges like Rios that are a destination in themselves. These are my favorites.
The Osa Peninsula
2.5% of the world’s biodiversity lives within the remarkable Osa Peninsula, which is packed with dense rainforests concealing some of the planet’s most elusive creatures.
My favorite all-inclusive lodge on the peninsula is El Remanso Rainforest Lodge ($800 USD double, all-inclusive; $1,100 USD villa with private pool; two-night minimum). This luxury hotel has incredible views across the ocean and sits within a 75-hectare (185-acre) jungle reserve.
You can hike the trails that weave through the forest or head out with a guide; you’ve got a better chance with the latter. I saw all four monkey species found in Costa Rica – howlers, white-faced capuchin, spider, and squirrel – plus a red-eyed tree frog, an armadillo, a collared anteater, and a rare kinkajou.
Arenal
On the southwestern edge of Laguna Arenal is the wonderful Rancho Margot ($335 USD double, minimum two nights, all-inclusive). It’s a fully self-sufficient, carbon-neutral eco resort, where you stay in cute bungalows set within a pretty garden and have access to hot spring-fed swimming pools.
You could easily spend days here without even leaving the lodge’s grounds; activities, including kayaking, horseback riding, and cheese or soap-making workshops, are available for an additional fee. You need a car to get here.
If you’re ready for further Costa Rica-based inspiration for your upcoming adventure, the following posts could be exactly what you’re looking for. Discover three 7-day itineraries for Costa Rica here, which feature my handpicked highlights for wildlife lovers, adventure seekers, and off-the-beaten-path explorers. First time visiting the country? Don’t book anything without reading this article showcasing the 15 best places to visit in Costa Rica, and click here to discover the best time to visit Guanacaste.